Ressence Updates its Type 3 Oil-Filled Watch with Two New B&W Versions

To my surprise, it’s been more than 10 years since Ressence presented the Type 3 model, the brand’s first oil-filled watch – a concept that later resulted in the creation of a diving model, the Type 5, benefitting from the distortion-free properties of oil. Since its first appearance in 2013, the Ressence Type 3 has undergone multiple updates, including a revised display and several new colours. In recent years, the Type 3 was presented in BBB or Eucalyptus Green editions with a revamped and streamlined layout. It’s time now for the two classic editions, the Type 3 Black and Type 3 White, to align their dial design with the other members of the collection. 

Founded in 2010 by Belgian industrial designer Benoît Mintiens, the brand’s philosophy of “beyond hands” is all about deconstructing and displaying time in a refreshing and dynamic way… without hands. By using an in-house display module named ROCS, the brand created a concept where time literally circles around the dial, like planets orbiting the Sun, using highly graphic and revolving sub-dials. Following the Type 1, Ressence presented the Type 3, which was the first model of the brand to feature an oil-filled display module.

The concept of introducing oil inside the display area of a watch was to counter the phenomenon of optical distortion – something that was already used for deep dive watches but only with quartz movements. Elementary physics asserts that the refraction of light as it moves from one substance to another – from air to sapphire crystal, for example – can distort perception. Divers often complain about this optical distortion that hampers legibility, a common problem shared by almost all mechanical dive watches. To cancel this distorting effect, the upper half of the Type 3 watch is filled with 35.7mg of oil, creating a projection effect that creates the illusion of information displayed directly on the glass. The concept was so brilliant that it found its way into the Type 5 model, making it one of the coolest and most practical dive watches imaginable.

While keeping the crown-free concept of the previous Type 3 models, the revamped versions introduce several updates, but mostly on the dial. The pebble-shaped case, with its smooth edge-to-edge sapphire crystals on both sides, is made of grade 5 titanium and measures 44mm in diameter and 15mm in thickness. It is composed of two separate and sealed chambers, with the upper half filled with oil. As with other Ressence models, the dimensions do not really give a real sense of how the watch feels on the wrist, and the Type 3 is mostly about the dial and the crystals rather than the case itself.

This year, the classic Type 3 Black and Type 3 White align with the rest of the collection, with the key update being the use of a new font for the display. When these two watches were first launched in 2013, Ressence’s in-house font hadn’t been finalised yet and only came to be in the 2015 Type 5. Following the style used on the Eucalyptus Green and Black Black 2 models, the new classic Type 3 versions have a cleaner, more modern dial with the brand’s classic font, a simplified hour disc with indexes every two hours and a redesigned shock absorber. Additionally, the weekend days and oil temperature indicators now feature new pastel tones.

Another evolution concerns the back. Since the upper part is immersed in oil, it creates the illusion that the indicators are inscribed on the sapphire glass, evoking a digital screen. To bring harmony to the overall design, a similar visual effect has been achieved on the reverse side of the watch despite not using oil in this part.

Technically speaking, the Type 3 Black and Type 3 White remain identical to the original concept, with the display module on top – the ROCS – being positioned in an oil bath, while the connection with the base movement – an automatic ETA 2892 – is made by a magnetic transmission driven by the minutes axle of the automatic base calibre. With this system, Ressence faced some challenges.  While oil provides high legibility, it is also sensitive to temperature variations. This is why the watch is equipped with a Bellows System to compensate for the oil’s expansion or contraction under varying thermal conditions – which is graphically represented by a temperature gauge on the dial.

The Ressence Type 3 Black and Type 3 White, worn on a black synthetic or medium-grey woven fabric strap, join the permanent collection and will be available worldwide from late fall 2024. The price is CHF 38,200 (excluding taxes). For more details, please visit ressencewatches.com.