Monochrome Watches
An online magazine dedicated to fine watches
First Look

Louis Erard and Vianney Halter Team Up Again for Striking, New Régulateur Models

While watches "made in collaboration with" are becoming quite (too) common, this new duo is worth your time.

| By Denis Peshkov | 3 min read |

Louis Erard continues to expand its portfolio of special editions made with renowned watchmakers and designers – such as Kudoke, Alain Silberstein, Cédric Johner or Massena LAB. The latest instalment is a collaboration with Vianney Halter, resulting in two versions of the new Régulateur Louis Erard, which draw inspiration from Steampunk aesthetics and showcase Halter’s unmistakable design language. This collaboration marks the second time the independent watchmaker has worked on a Louis Erard creation. Both iterations of the new Régulateur take cues from Vianney Halter’s and Jeff Barnes’s iconic Antiqua and Classic design, but this edition seems to lean more heavily into its aesthetic DNA. Look at Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter II and see if you agree.

The case design of the new Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Chapter II, across both versions, remains consistent and measures 43mm in diameter and 10.95mm thick, crafted from stainless steel in a three-part construction. The polished and circular satin-brushed case features a display caseback, curved lugs – the lug-to-lug is measured at 49.6mm – and a distinctive stepped bezel adorned with 12 polished red-gilt 5N rivets. The rivets are also featured on Halter’s signature crown, which is located at 2 o’clock. This unconventional placement results from the movement’s tilted position, also enabling the dial’s seemingly deconstructed, asymmetric layout.

Ad – Scroll to continue with article

The dial, shielded by a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, maintains the regulator-style layout that’s dear to Louis Erard – minutes are displayed by a central hand, while hours and running seconds occupy separate subdials. However, this collaborative edition introduces a literal twist infused with Barnes x Halter’s distinctive style. The usual horizontal alignment of the indications is tilted to the left, sending the hour subdial in the same direction and the running seconds tilted in the opposite.

The subdials feature circular satin-brushed rings with black markings, each noticeably different in size. This creates a fleeting illusion of disarray – an effect that fades yet reappears with every glance. At the dial’s periphery, the minutes chapter ring stands out with its bulging plaque-like segments, carrying the Louis Erard logo at 2 o’clock. Like the subdials, it sports a circular brushed finish and black transfers. All these rings are cut-outs layered over a base with a refined vertical satin-brushed finish, adding depth and texture.

The Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter II versions distinguish themselves through the colours of their chapter rings and dial bases. One version, reserved for exclusive retail distribution, pairs rhodium-plated rings with a red-gilt 5N-plated base. The second, available exclusively via the brand’s e-boutique, reverses the colour scheme and showcases a rhodium-plated base with red-gilt chapter and counter rings. Both versions feature heat-blued steel hands, a hallmark of Halter´s design, adding a cohesive touch to these creations.

The display caseback, engraved with Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Limited Edition 1 of 178, offers a view of the movement, which is an automatic Sellita SW266-1, operating at 28,800 vibrations/hour and providing 38 hours of power reserve.

Both editions of the Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Chapter II are worn on a dark brown grained calf leather strap featuring tone-on-tone stitching and a black-grained calf leather lining for added comfort. The strap is secured with a polished stainless steel pin buckle and includes spring bars for quick and easy changes; the lug width is 22mm. Both versions are priced at CHF 4,444 (excluding tax) and are limited to 178 pieces each.

For more details, please visit LouisErard.com.

https://monochrome-watches.com/regulateur-louis-erard-x-vianney-halter-chapter-ii-watches-hands-on-review-price/

2 responses

  1. I’m sure this will be an unpopular opinion, but here it is anyway… This is a “fashion watch”. More so than some of the pieces coming out these days from Cartier, Hermés, Chanel, LV, much less an innovator like Bulgari. Don’t get me wrong — it looks cool. It’s an interesting piece. But I’m not sure why stuff like this where they do an intriguing dial on a run of the mill, nearly unfinished movement and it gets more respect than the so-called fashion brands that are doing far more innovative watches (in most cases).

    1
  2. What is Louis Erard exactly? They don’t make the movements–they’re Sellitas–making these SWs into regulateurs doesn’t make them neither original in concept, nor in-house. They don’t make the designs–they’re the collaborating brands. They don’t provide a respectable brand name… What value is there for these collaborating brands to work with LE?

    1

Leave a Reply