Monochrome Watches
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Raymond Weil Launches the New Millesime Automatic Moon Phase

A new moon phase model expands the successful Millesime collection with its attractive vintage sector dial.

| By Rebecca Doulton | 3 min read |

Marking its first attendance at Watches & Wonders, Raymond Weil showcases a variety of novelties from its new Millesime collection, a few days ahead of the show. Well-received when it was introduced earlier this year, the Millesime has vintage overtones but is not based on anything from the company’s archives. After all, Raymond Weil started life in 1976 and the retro spirit of the Millesime is the brand’s way to pay homage to a certain period in timekeeping history when sector dials were in vogue. Following the footsteps of the Small Seconds and Central Seconds, one of the new Millesime is equipped with a moon phase indicator and it surely looks appealing.

Sticking to the successful formula applied to the two earlier references, the Millesime Automatic Moon Phase comes in a 39.5mm stainless steel case with a thickness of 10.05mm. Available in stainless steel with a silver or steel with a rose gold PVD coating with a midnight blue dial, the case is 50m water-resistant and flaunts a variety of finishings. The bezel and case flanks are vertically brushed, contrasting with the polished bevel of the bezel and the top surfaces of the case middle and fluted crown. Underscoring its vintage personality, the dial is protected by a glassbox sapphire crystal.

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The selling point of the Millesime is its well-designed sector dial. Popular in the 1920s and 1930s, sector dials are enjoying a revival. Governed by strict geometry and fine gradations, the purpose of sector dials was to enhance legibility. The three concentric tracks, progressing in size from seconds (180 short markers) on the periphery to minutes (60 medium markers) and hours (12 thick markers) treated with Super-LumiNova, facilitate precision time readings.

Another feature often found on sector dials is the embossed crosshair in the centre, dividing the area into four segments. The sectors are also treated to different finishings to further define them: the seconds and minutes are snailed, the chapter ring with hours is smooth, and the crosshair circle has a discreet vertical brush matching the brushed bezel. Depending on the model, the hour and minute hands are either nickel-plated or rose gold-plated and treated with Super-LumiNova.

The circular moon phase indicator occupies the lower half of the crosshair quadrant and a section of the chapter ring with the hours. The Moon is represented by a human face and is accompanied by planets and stars. Judging by the preliminary press photos, it seems that the Moon and stars are treated with Super-LumiNova, but we need to see the watch in the metal to confirm this.

The two models are powered by calibre RW4280, the brand’s name for a Sellita SW280-1 automatic with moon phases and a somewhat limited power reserve of 38 hours.

The steel Millesime Automatic Moon Phase comes with a 20mm grey calfskin leather strap with four top stitches near the lugs and a steel buckle; the rose gold PVD version has a blue calfskin leather strap. Since the lugs are drilled, the straps can be easily exchanged. No price as yet, but the watches will be available in October 2024.

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5 responses

  1. This looks great and I really like the dimensions. It will be interesting to see what the price is and how it compares to watches from Longines/Christopher Ward etc

  2. Although I like the look, the second marks make no sense at all, as the movement is 28’800 A/h which translates to 4Hz. So 3 markers (or 5 in total with the minute markers) are just wrong. Design is good design if it works. And not if it’s wrong.

  3. I’ve just got a moonphase maestro a couple of weeks ago… /sigh

  4. Raymond Weil is on a roll. Last few releases have been phenomenal. I am definitely going to be taking a more serious look at this brand.

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