The Intricate Work of Chinese Indie Watchmaker Qian GuoBiao

Horological discoveries are the things that fuel a great deal of passion within the MONOCHROME editorial team. We know it gets a lot of people in the watch collecting community excited as well. Put 2 and 2 together, and you can understand why we regularly feature new and potentially never-seen-before watchmakers and other initiatives on our platform. In recent years, we have frequently turned to Asia for some of the most intriguing indie watchmakers, with the latest to be portrayed being Qian GuoBiao. Originating from China, his watches are largely made by hand, often exposing intricate mechanics on the dial side. Here’s what we uncovered by asking him a series of questions.

Robin, MONOCHROME Watches – Qian GuoBiao, you’re a watchmaker from China. Can you introduce yourself briefly?

I am an independent watchmaker born in Ninghai, Zhejiang, and currently working and living in Dongguan, Guangdong. From a young age, I was fascinated by mechanical structures, later channelling this curiosity into watch repair and creation. I am dedicated to crafting unique timepieces that blend aesthetics and functionality, aiming to contribute to the field of independent watchmaking in China.

The front of the original Facing The Sky prototype.

The back of the original Facing The Sky prototype.

What triggered you to pursue a profession in watchmaking? Where does the passion come from?

My interest stems from a fascination with mechanics and a love for watches. Years of working in watch repair and maintenance gradually fueled my desire for aesthetic expression and creativity. In recent years, I have transitioned from crafting watches based on my own designs for personal enjoyment to producing works to share with fellow watch enthusiasts and collectors. My passion is rooted in this love, and being able to pursue a career I cherish is truly fulfilling.

How did you learn the knowledge and skills needed to make a watch?

Interest is the greatest teacher. My initial career was as a mould-maker, enabling me to independently craft precision components. Coupled with my deep interest in watches, I taught myself through books, repeatedly disassembling, assembling, and repairing various complex movements, immersing myself in the process. Over time, I gained recognition for my skills as a mechanical watch repairer, affectionately dubbed the “Tourbillon Doctor” by the watch community in China. Exposure to a wide range of watch models from global brands and exchanges with fellow enthusiasts broadened my perspective, refined my aesthetics, and built the foundation for my independent watchmaking.

The Double Balance Wheel watch

The Double Balance Wheel watch.

You’re based in Dongguan City, Guangdong province. What’s the watch culture like there?

Dongguan is renowned for its manufacturing industry, but its watch culture is still in its infancy. Benefiting from its proximity to Hong Kong, Shenzhen, and Guangzhou in the Greater Bay Area, there is a significant community of watch enthusiasts and collectors. However, public awareness of mechanical watches often remains brand-focused. Through my work, I hope to draw greater attention to the intrinsic value of traditional watchmaking craftsmanship.

The Luminance of the Metropolis watch

The Luminance of the Metropolis watch.

How would you describe your watchmaking style, and where does inspiration come from?

My style leans toward “modern utilitarianism,” emphasising clear visual hierarchy and wearability. Inspiration often comes from architectural forms and geometric lines found in nature. The “Facing the Sky” is a hallmark of my work, showcasing the beauty of mechanical rhythm. I completed my first “Facing the Sky” piece 20 years ago, and it has been a process of continuous refinement since. It originally came in a 43mm wide case with a small offset dial for the time and a front-mounted balance wheel and goose-neck regulation system.

You’ve recently finished the Facing The Sky 2.0. Can you tell us more about that watch?

Compared to the prototype, the “Facing The Sky 2.0” (see above) has been reduced in overall size, with a simplified dial that highlights key elements. From 43mm it’s now down to 39mm. The balance bridge on the dial aligns with the base movement, while the fine adjustment mechanism and gooseneck regulator retain the prototype’s design. The case is in steel and it has a height of 12.5mm, including the crystal. I will make only 12 pieces on a subscription basis.

The construction of the movement looks rather impressive. Do you make it yourself?

All my works are independently completed in my personal watchmaking studio in Dungguan. The “Facing The Sky 2.0” is smaller than the prototype, making it more suitable for wear. The base movement remains unchanged, with the dial design scaled down accordingly. The balance bridge on the dial corresponds with the base movement, maintaining coherence. It runs at 18,000vph and has a power reserve of 40 hours. The distinctive fine adjustment mechanism and gooseneck regulator continue to reflect the prototype’s design.

You’ve also worked with Behrens Watches. Can you tell us about that?

Yes, last year, Behrens and I launched a collaborative piece in the Master Series: the MASTER 1 “Kung Fu” watch. Behrens is a highly innovative and forward-thinking company known for breaking conventions. Our collaboration sparked numerous creative ideas and inspirations, and I hope more watch enthusiasts will discover and appreciate our work.

Is there something you’re working on that you can already share with us?

My daily work in the studio involves repairing high-end, complex watches, while I also dedicate time to refining and assembling my own watches. In my spare time, I plan and innovate, jotting down ideas as they come. When an idea matures, I create a prototype for testing. Over time, this process results in a finished piece.

What do you see your brand evolving into in the future? What can we expect in, say, the coming 3 or 4 years?

My short-term goal is to refine a “studio + small-batch customisation” model. In the future, I may introduce more accessible series without compromising on design or craftsmanship. I hope that in three to four years, my works will be recognised by international collectors as a hallmark of “original Chinese watchmaking.”

How can people get in touch or stay up to date with your work on future projects?

People can follow my IG: @qianguobiao or email me at [email protected].