The Punchy Pink Louis Erard Regulator x Sylvie Fleury

Under Manuel Emch’s capable and creative leadership, Louis Erard has evolved from relative obscurity to become an exciting player on the watch scene, offering original timepieces by contemporary artists, designers and watchmakers. However, what makes Louis Erard’s doubly attractive is the combination of original content with accessible prices. The notion that a handcrafted Grand Feu enamel dial is the prerogative of top-tier, outlandishly expensive brands is turned upside down at Louis Erard, effectively democratising the watch scene by bringing quality goods to more people at fair prices. Kicking off 2025 with a bold punch of colour, Louis Erard presents its latest collaboration watch with contemporary Swiss artist Sylvie Fleury.

Once again, Louis Erard’s Regulator watch has been singled out for the collaboration. Paradoxically, the old-school layout of 18^th-century master or regulator clocks, with their separation of minutes, hours and seconds, is the most popular model for collaborations at Louis Erard. From the radical minimalism of the Olivier Mosset collaboration to Konstantin Chaykin’s time-devouring monster – and everything in between – the Regulator is the brand’s ambassador at large.

Swiss artist Sylvie Fleury (1961) explores consumer culture and gendered consumption patterns with her provocative artworks and installations. Playing with icons taken from the world of high-end luxury, Fleury examines the feverish consumerism of fashion and luxury commodities. With her large abstract acrylic paintings inspired by makeup compacts from well-known brands, Fleury translates makeup into art and examines the power of cosmetic objects and the fetishisation of beauty. As Fleury explains: “I unveil objects with raw simplicity while relentlessly pushing the boundaries that try to cage them, refusing to be boxed in by the labels of what I do and who I am.”

Fleury’s collaboration with Louis Erard is inspired by her bright, abstract makeup compacts, translated into the diminutive dimensions of the 39mm watch. The sleek black PVD stainless steel case and the glossy black patent leather strap evoke the lacquered cases of makeup compacts, a dark, sensual finish allowing the colours of the palette to really pop.

The distinctive layout of the Regulator, with hours in the sub-dial at noon, seconds in the sub-dial at 6 o’clock and the minutes on the periphery, is respected here. However, with Fleury’s makeover, the domed hours sub-dial stands out with a vibrant coral colour, while the seconds compete for attention with a domed shade of matte magenta. Each sub-dial features a matching lacquered hand, although the central minutes hand is black, like the inky black lacquered, polished background. The Louis Erard logo and name of the artist are featured at 3 and 9 o’clock, respectively.

Like other Regulator watches in the Excellence collection, the movement inside is an automatic Sellita SW266-1 beating at 28,800vph with a 38-hour power reserve. Glimpses of the movement with its bespoke openworked rotor are afforded by the black crystal on the caseback. The Regulator Louis Erard x Sylvie Fleury Palette of Shadows is a limited edition of 178 pieces and retails for CHF 3,900 (excl. tax). For more details, please visit LouisErard.com.