The Patek Philippe Calatrava “Clous de Paris” 6119 Hand-Wound

The Patek Philippe Calatrava is a horological icon that deserves little to no introduction. Presented in 1932 under reference 96, the model is seen by many as the ultimate dress watch. Among the countless versions of the Calatrava, the Clous de Paris has turned into a Patek Philippe trademark since its introduction on the bezel of the reference 96D in 1934. Fast forward to modern days, the emblematic reference 3919 was introduced in 1985 and has often been regarded as the quintessential Calatrava. This unapologetically elegant 33mm dress watch was powered by the micro-rotor calibre 215. The reference 5119 introduced in 2006 was slightly larger at 36mm. It’s now time for the model to reinvent itself with a larger, modernized version. Meet the Patek Philippe Calatrava 6119 and its new hand-wound calibre.

With reference 6119, Patek Philippe updates its cult Calatrava with Clous de Paris motif and small seconds. Reference 6119 is a direct reference to the 3919 and 5119 references. The first important change is the enlarged more contemporary 39mm diameter. As you would expect from Patek Philippe, this was achieved without compromising the slender profile of the case.

The guilloched hobnail bezel features a slightly wider profile as well as a thin, polished fillet that frames the box-form sapphire crystal. The lugs have been reworked as well. These are curved as a nod to the Ref. 96. The lacquered Roman numerals of the Refs. 3919 and 5119 have been replaced by applied faceted “obus” markers in 18K gold (with double markers at 12 o’clock) and are paired with gold dauphine hands. The sleek “cheveu”-style seconds hand sweeps on a subsidiary subdial divided into four quarters.

The larger diameter of the case made necessary the use of a new movement. The hand-wound Patek Philippe 215 PS calibre is 21.9mm x 2.55mm which would not have been adapted for a 39mm case. It is replaced by the hand-wound Calibre 30‑255 PS that is 31mm in diameter (and the exact same 2.55mm height!). This modern calibre comes with several interesting upgrades. A twin-barrel movement, it boasts a 65-hour, weekend-proof power reserve versus 44 hours for the 215 PS. It also comes with a stop second mechanism for precise setting. The new calibre 30‑255 PS can be admired through the sapphire case back with its 6 elegantly shaped bridges and beautiful finishes in the characteristic Patek Philippe style.

The Patek Philippe Calatrava 6119 is available in two versions. The Ref. 6119R-001 combines a rose-gold case, a silvery grained dial and a chocolate brown alligator strap. The Ref. 6119G-001 in white gold comes with a charcoal grey dial and a black alligator strap. The watch is fitted with a pin buckle matching the material of the case. The price is set at EUR 25,800 or CHF 25,000.

For more information, please visit www.patek.com.