This year, the Geneva-Based manufacture Patek Philippe is celebrating the 20th anniversary of one of its modern icons, the Aquanaut. As part of a new collection, the brand adds some color and a bit of boldness to a model that have always been playing on the discreet side, with a 42mm and blue dial Patek Philippe Aquanaut Jumbo 5168G.
After a huge buzz made around the 40th anniversary editions of the Nautilus in 2016 – with two limited editions we showed to you here – Patek is now giving some credits to another modern icon of sports watches, the Aquanaut. At the 1997 Basel show, Patek Philippe presented the new Aquanaut Ref. 5060A, a sporty, yet chic and contemporary watch for men in stainless steel designed to appeal to a young generation.
Less “classical“, less expensive too, more simple and more adapted to a daily use, the Aquanaut took inspiration in the Nautilus, but with a 3 part case and a more simple construction, as with rubber strap and not an integrated steel bracelet. Yet, it shares the octagonal / porthole shape of the Nautilus, something that quickly create some appeal around this watch. Later, the Aquanaut evolved slightly with the 5167, a bit more refined and rounded than before. This year, a new version has been introduced, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Jumbo 5168G, and its not just about a new color.
The new Patek Philippe Aquanaut Jumbo 5168G doesn’t new the concept of the model but updates quite some aspects, at least visually. Mechanically, the Aquanaut still is driven by the slim (3.3mm), central rotor calibre 324 SC (seconde centrale), a three-hander with date at 3, Patek seal and -3 / +2 seconds per day. The movement is still visible from the back.
The main evolution, as you might have guessed by the official “Jumbo” appellation, is the increased diameter. While before a small (literally small on the wrist) 40mm, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Jumbo 5168G is now 42mm, and 18k white gold – still 120m water resistant. No drama thought, the watch retains a relative elegance and just adds a bit of modern appeal.
In terms of dial, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Jumbo 5168G inaugurates a new color, perfectly in line with its aquatic intentions: a navy blue, slightly gradient dial (darker on the periphery). It retains the embossed checkerboard patter of the model. Of course, because of the increased diameter, the dates sits slightly less on the edge of the dial than before, but nothing shocking either. Furthermore, it is quite slim for such a sports watch, at only 9.2mm.
The applied numerals are equal, as well as the hands, in steel with white luminous paint (hours and minutes) or counterbalanced and white-laquered for the seconds. In the metal, the color is rather pleasant, with nice reflections, which gives the Aquanaut a bolder and sportier look. it is paired with a matching rubber strap.
The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Jumbo 5168G will priced at CHF 34,000. patek.com.