Universal Genève Teases its 2026 Return, with Three 70th Anniversary Polerouter SAS Tribute Watches

The Polerouter is, without a doubt, one of the most emblematic watches ever created by Universal Genève. Not only was it designed by young Gérald Genta, but it was powered by an important micro-rotor movement and was a purpose-built watch created by request of SAS, asking Universal Genève to create a watch that could support pilots flying over the North Pole for the first time – which occurred exactly 70 years ago, on November 15, 1954. Now, you’re certainly aware that, under the guidance of Georges Kern (CEO of Breitling), together with private investment firms Partners Group and CVC Capital Partners, Universal Genève will be back soon. But before we see what the brand has to offer (in 2026), here’s a tribute to the Polerouter SAS Watches. Three faithful recreations with historic micro-rotor movements, each a unique piece, one of which will be auctioned… Are we seeing here a draft for future models to come? This will remain a question for now. 

A quick recap about the Universal Geneve Polerouter

Universal Genève found its origins in 1894 as Universal Watch, a Le Locle-based brand, before setting up shop in Geneva in 1919. In 1936, it became known as Universal Genève, making a name for itself with its wide range of chronographs. In 1954, however, a new collection was presented, and it changed the company quite drastically. Its name was the Polerouter (initially the Polarouter), a watch mostly known for its elegance, its two-tone texture dial (some with a classic tuxedo effect) and interesting features, such as its resistance to shocks, magnetism, changes in temperature and moisture. But why such capabilities for a watch that seemed to be delicate and formal? 

The answer lies in the very origin of the Polerouter, a watch designed specifically for a mission, that of flying over the North Pole from Copenhagen to Los Angeles, on the wrist of the pilots of the SAS. Indeed, on November 15, 1954, the Scandinavian Airlines opened its first flight from the North of Europe to the West Coast of the United States, flying over the North Pole and reducing travel time between Copenhagen and Los Angeles, trimming 2,600 kilometres from the usual journey. The first flight clocked at 22 hours, shaving no fewer than 14 hours off the conventional flight path (the reason was the impact of the magnetic pole on instruments).

To complement all the other purpose-built equipment necessary for this flight, the SAS asked Universal Genève to create a watch that could support pilots and survive these magnetic conditions, but also fit the necessary elegance you’d expect from a pilot in the 1950s. The design task was given to a then-young man known as Gérald Genta (23 years old at that time), who imagined this elegant and now recognizable design with twisted lugs, a tuxedo-like dial design surrounded by an engine-turned ring and a 35mm diameter. 

The standout feature of the Polerouter was its three-dimensional effect, achieved through a two-part design featuring a tension ring with hour markers fixed to the glass and a curved dial to secure the movement. The arrangement, patented by Universal Genève in 1953, was considered a technical and visual achievement.

Inaugural references were powered by the calibre 138SS, a bumper-style automatic movement. It was only in the mid-1950s that the Polerouter gained its other iconic element, the micro-rotor engine that most of us now associate with this watch. Named Calibre 215, this thin movement of 4.1mm in height positioned the rotor on the same level as the bridges instead of above the movement. Together with Büren, Universal Genève was one of the first watchmaking companies to widely use this technical solution. 

Initially, 170 Polerouter were produced – now highly collectable – with most of these initial timepieces gifted to SAS pilots. By 1956, the Polerouter was its own collection and was sold under its Polerouter-only name, no longer linked exclusively with SAS. 

Three 70th anniversary, unique Tribute Polerouter SAS Watches

As explained in this article, Universal Genève will be back in action soon “to restore the prestige of a hallowed name.” This name and renewed brand will be advertised as “Le Couturier de la Montre” or the “watch tailor.” Behind it is an acquisition by private investment firms Partners Group and CVC Capital Partners, both behind Breilting. And without surprise, the CEO of Universal Genève will be Georges Kern, who has been at the head of Breilting for the past years. 

While we’re yet to know more about the brand’s strategy regarding the collections, watchmaking capacities and design of the future collections – these will be presented in 2026 – we now have something to whet our appetite, a celebration of the 70th anniversary of the first transpolar flight with three unique pieces, paying tribute to the origins of the Polerouter watch made for the SAS. 

With these Universal Genève Polerouter SAS Tribute models, we’re not looking yet at commercialised watches nor restored vintage models. It sits somewhere in-between, with three modern recreations of original Polerouter watches, made from scratch but using vintage micro-rotor calibre 1-69 from the 1960s, which has been restored to former glory.

All three Polerouter SAS Tribute watches rely on a newly designed case that’s been deeply influenced by the original Genta design, yet modified to meet modern standards. Measuring 35mm in diameter, with a height of 9.95mm, these are now equipped with a cambered sapphire crystal and a reworked solid caseback, together with a new crown with a double gasket to ensure an improved water-resistance of 50 metres. Of course, the classic lines of the Polerouter watch, with its twisted lugs, gentle curves and flat bezel, have all been respected. 

The dials of these Tribute Polerouter SAS are also visually faithful, but technically upgraded. For instance, the all-important rehauts (inner flange) are guilloched with the point of a diamond to achieve great depth and brilliance, contrasting with the satin-finished centre part. 

As said, we’re looking at a set of three unique pieces. The first, which features both the new Universal Genève logo and the historic and modern SAS logos on the dial, relies on a deep blue colour (SAS’ signature tone), and is housed in a white gold case. It is worn on a rather spectacular gold bracelet, which is modelled after Universal Genève’s original historical designs. It has been made by hand by Laurent Jolliet, a craftsman who is the last chain-maker in Switzerland – reinforcing the idea of couture behind the new UG. 

This specific white gold and blue piece will be auctioned off at Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo in May of 2025, to benefit CFP Arts in Geneva, which teaches applied arts, ensuring critical knowledge of watchmaking savoir-faire exists for generations to come. 

The two other Tribute Polerouter SAS editions, again unique pieces, are inspired by original Polerouter designs. The first, with a silver-toned dial, is made of stainless steel (case, inner bezel, hands and dial), with the Universal Genève logo and the historical SAS logo in contrasting red gold – it feels the closest to the original 1950s model made for SAS. The other edition is made from 18k red gold (case, inner bezel, and hands) paired with a classic tuxedo black dial. These two Tribute Polerouter timepieces will become part of the Universal Genève archives. 

As said, we’re not here looking at watches that will be available for the general public – except the one to be auctioned. What these three watches could be are teasers for what to expect in the near future. Maybe, vintage movements aside, we’re looking at the blueprints of the next Polerouter that will be presented in 2026…? I don’t know, but looking at these, I somehow want that to be the truth. 

More details at www.universalgeneve.com.