Naoya Hida Unveils its 2024 Collection, Including a Stunning Rectangular Type 5A

We’ve said it on numerous occasions, but watchmaking isn’t limited to Switzerland or even Europe. There is potential all around the globe, sometimes in the most unexpected places. Japan, for that matter, is one of the most fascinating spots for watches, including independent, creative horology. Names such as Minase, Hajime Asaoka (and Kurono) or Kikuchi Nakagawa have gained incredible respect. And we have to include Naoya Hida & Co. on this list, too. Notable for his design mixing classical elegance and refined techniques, he and his team are back with a new collection, which includes luxurious takes on existing models as well as a new rectangular watch that would have been spot-on in the 1930s (and it still is today…).

For previous articles about Naoya Hida, you can consult our coverage of the 2022-2023 collection, our introduction of the inaugural Type 3A Moon Phase, and the recently introduced 36mm Type 4A Collection. This will give you a good idea of what the brand is all about and bring context to the 2024 Naoya Hida collection, starting with this brand-new compact watch.

The rectangular, art deco Naoya Hida Type 5A

The most important release of the year for NH Watches is an unexpected, completely retro and highly charming watch with compact dimensions. This rectangular watch, measuring 26mm in width and 33mm in length (without the lugs, 43.5mm total length), is not even trying to hide its 1920s/1930s inspiration. In all fairness, it could have been launched alongside a Reverso in between the wars, and no one would have complained. Made of 904L steel, the case is stepped, elegant and with a certain simplicity that gives it a vintage charm. It is topped by a three-dimensional box-shaped sapphire crystal in two parts, reminiscent of antique watches. Small size, strong impact, specifically with this wide 20mm strap.

The two-part dial, in typical NH fashion, is made from grained German silver with hand-engraved Arabic and triangular indexes filled with black cashew (so-called synthetic Urushi lacquer) ink. Two sharp Dauphine hands, once again polished by hand with a concave cross-section, indicate the time, while a blued steel hand runs around the recessed small seconds counter. The combination of a rectangular dial opening, circular tracks and radial markers gives the dial incredible dynamism.

The back reveals a newly developed movement, the hand-wound, shaped calibre 2524SS. NH doesn’t indicate the provenance, but it could well be based on a Peseux architecture—yet fully reworked. Although mechanically simple, the decoration is appealing with large handmade stripes and polished bevels, all coherent with the overall look of the watch.

As always with the brand, the Naoya Hida Type 5A will be produced in small quantities. Expect approximately 10 pieces to be produced between 2024 and 2025, priced at JPY 3,000,000 (about EUR 18,000, excl. taxes).

Quick facts: 26mm (W) x 9.1mm (H) x 43.5mm (L) brushed and polished 904L steel case – 30m water-resistant – German silver two-part dial – calibre 2524SS, hand-wound, 19 jewels, 21,600 vibrations/hour, 38h power reserve – 20mm leather strap – limited production of 10 pieces in 2024-2025 – JPY 3,000,000 (excl. taxes)

A new two-tone take on the Type 3B Moon

A highly elegant Calatrava-inspired model, the Type 3B Moon Phase is the model that led us to discover the brand back in 2021. Now, three years after its release, NH Watches offers a new interpretation with a two-tone case. The 37mm x 10.7mm central case and caseback are made of 904L steel, while the bezel is made of polished 18k rose gold. The closed back ensures a decent 50m water-resistance and the watch retains its original elegance.

The dial is almost identical to the inaugural edition and is made from grained German silver but with rose gold hands to match the bezel. The distinctive gold hand-engraved moon face is placed against a starry sky made from lapis lazuli. The Roman numerals are here hand-engraved and filled with black cashew lacquer. Powering the watch is the calibre 3021LU, a highly modified 7750 architecture now hand-wound and fully decorated. Only five pieces of this watch will be made between 2024 and 2025, priced at JPY 3,800,000 (about EUR 22,800 excl. taxes).

Quick facts: 37mm (D) x 10.7mm (H) x 44mm (L) brushed and polished 904L steel case – 50m water-resistant – German silver two-part dial – calibre 3021LU, hand-wound, 18 jewels, 28,800 vibrations/hour, 45h power reserve – 20mm Alcantara strap – limited production of 5 pieces in 2024-2025 – JPY 3,800,000 (excl. taxes)

Two yellow gold Type 1D

The brand’s first watch, yet in its fourth iteration (the D model), the Type 1D is the essence of a 1940s-inspired dress watch—a typical Calatrava-style model. Previously available in steel, it is now made in two editions in yellow gold. The first is classic, with a brushed and polished case, while the second has an Art Deco style with hand-engraved waves on the case middle by Keisuke Kano. In both cases, the dimensions are identical, at 37mm in diameter and 9.8mm in thickness.

The dials are the same on both editions of this Type 1D, with a two-part structure in friction-plated German silver and an inner flange that includes 60 yellow gold minute markers. The splendid hand-polished and domed hands are executed in solid gold and the Breguet numerals are also hand-engraved and filled with synthetic Urushi lacquer. Inside is the calibre 3019SS, using the same design and technical specs as mentioned above. Five pieces of the non-engraved Naoya Hida Type 1D-2 will be made between 2024 and 2025, priced at JPY 5,800,000 (approx. EUR 34,750 excl. taxes). Three pieces of the engraved Type 1D-3 will be made between 2024 and 2025 and priced at JPY 8,000,000 (about 48,000 excl. taxes).

Quick facts: 37mm (D) x 9.8mm (H) x 44mm (L) brushed and polished 18K yellow gold case – hand-engravings on the Type 1D-3 – 50m water-resistant – German silver two-part dial – calibre 3019SS, hand-wound, 18 jewels, 28,800 vibrations/hour, 48h power reserve – 20mm leather strap – limited production of 3 and 5 pieces in 2024-2025 – JPY 5,800,000 (Type 1D-2) and JPY 8,000,000 (Type 1D-3), excl. taxes

For more details, please visit naoyahidawatch.com.