The New Moritz Grossmann GMT now with Guilloché Dials

As a brand that takes great pride in the pursuit of Schönstes Deutsches Handwerk, translated as “the most beautiful German craftsmanship,” Moritz Grossmann is home to exquisite handcrafted dials. Giving old-school decorative techniques a contemporary twist, Grossmann proposes two new versions of its practical traveller’s GMT watch with hand-guilloché dials in lush summer colours.

Moritz Grossmann’s first GMT model, as reviewed here, was released in 2019 and offered in 41mm gold cases with sober argenté and champagne dials. The 2025 models abandon all pretentions of sobriety by embracing eye-catching green and orange guilloché dials. Similar to the Date watch with its turquoise guilloché dial, the guilloché work on the dial is handmade using a rose lathe machine, requiring great skill to ensure consistent depth and spacing between the lines. The wave pattern engraved on the solid silver dial is diamond-polished to a high gloss before the matte green and bright orange coatings are applied. The result is a dynamic interplay of subtle, ever-changing shades as the rippled surfaces catch the light.

Practicality is also built into the GMT watch with its easy-to-consult time zones. The lance-shaped hands – heat-annealed to a blue tone on the green dial and polished steel on the orange – indicate local time, complemented by a small seconds counter at 6 o’clock. To enjoy the guilloché to the fullest, the dial dispenses with applied hour markers and instead relies on dots printed on the sloping area of the flange for the hours and minutes.

Home time, or your second time zone of choice, is positioned on the peripheral flange with a 24-hour scale and a revolving arrow-shaped pointer. Ever-practical, the crown on the case, located at 10 o’clock, adjusts the arrow indicator in hourly increments in both directions without affecting the central hands.

The stainless steel case, measuring 41mm in diameter and 11.85mm in height, is polished and features a second pusher at 4 o’clock. Another practical feature, this pusher is designed for precision time setting. When the crown is pulled out to set the time, it automatically springs back to its original position, activating the stop-seconds mechanism to allow precision time setting. Once the time is set, the pusher reactivates the movement and resets the crown to winding mode. The reasons behind this easy-to-use safety mechanism are to prevent dust from entering the case via the crown, to minimise wear and tear on the keyless works, and to prevent unintentional movement of the hands when pushing the crown back into place.

Powered by the in-house calibre 100.8, the manual-winding movement is decorated with refined finishes. The 2/3 plate is made from German silver plate and decorated with thick Glashütte ribbing and hand-engraved inscriptions. The ratchet wheel is decorated with three-band snailing, and the raised gold chatons with the white sapphire bearing jewels are held in place by hand-annealed mauve screws. The gold-plated Grossman balance wheel is held in position with a cantilevered hand-engraved balance cock and escape-wheel cock. The GMT mechanism is integrated into the movement on the dial side. The balance wheel beats at a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour, and the power reserve is 42 hours.

The Moritz Grossmann GMT Guilloché models are paired with a black alligator strap with a stainless steel prong buckle. Limited to eight pieces in each colour, the watches retail for EUR 52,800. More information at grossmann-uhren.com.