The New Maurice Lacroix Aikonic Master Triple Retrograde
The more technical high-performance Aikonic line flexes its horological muscles and embraces triple retrograde indications, including a practical GMT.
Maurice Lacroix’s best-selling Aikon collection was launched in 2016 as an affordably priced luxury sports watch with a shaped case, a bold bezel with six contrasting claws, an integrated interchangeable steel bracelet, and an outsourced automatic movement. Over time, the Aikon collection has embraced several complications and recently expanded with the Aikonic sub-collection, a more technically robust sibling featuring high-performance materials, higher levels of finishing and more sophisticated movements. Case in point is the release of the Aikonic Master Triple Retrograde, with, as its name indicates, three retrograde indications and a powerful contemporary steel case with ceramic accents.
While the Aikon has dominated the brand’s output in recent years, it’s easy to forget that Maurice Lacroix is no stranger to innovative, original displays, many of which are congregated in the brand’s Masterpiece collection. The retrograde display is most closely associated with Maurice Lacroix, appearing in 1999 with the Calendar Retrograde, followed by the Moon Retrograde, the Double Retrograde and the Square Wheel Retrograde, culminating in the 2021 Triple Retrograde.
Exchanging the classical habitat of the round Masterpiece case and its equally traditional matte silver dial with blued hands and Roman numerals, the triple retrograde indication moves into the sportier, edgier confines of the Aikonic family with a partially openworked dial with contemporary displays. Adopting the novelties of the new Aikonic collection, the 43mm tonneau-shaped steel case is 13mm thick and is surmounted by a powerful black brushed ceramic bezel with six double claws in relief and a ceramic-coated screw-down crown. Designed to last, the high-tech ceramic is virtually scratch-proof and won’t fade when exposed to UV light.
A predominance of vertical brushed surfaces underscores the watch’s sporty spirit, including the sandblasted finish of the black ceramic claws. Conversely, the flanks of the case middle and bezel, as well as the four steel claws extending from the case to the bracelet, are polished. Fitted with a technical black rubber strap with a textured insert, the watch features the new patented ML Easy Change tool-free strap switch system with no visible catches or levers to preserve the smooth lines of the 100m water-resistant case. The dial is protected by an anti-reflective sapphire crystal, and the caseback has a sapphire glass to view the movement.
The dark grey closed portions of the Aikonic Master Triple Retrograde’s dial are also decorated with a thick vertical brush, revealing four apertures housing the triple retrograde displays and the small seconds at 9 o’clock. While I wouldn’t describe it as a skeletonised dial by any stretch, the openworked apertures reveal parts of the rhodium-plated mainplate decorated with wide vertical Côtes de Genève stripes.
The three retrograde displays are represented by a very practical GMT indication featured in the top aperture with a 24-hour scale. Moving clockwise, the days of the week are indicated at 3 o’clock and the month at 6 o’clock, all fitted with blued hands. In contrast to the darker anthracite dial, the counters feature light grey tracks with white indications.
Given the copious amount of information and action on the dial, the layout is reasonably legible, though the openworked areas introduce a degree of distraction. The three hour markers, applied at 8, 9 (barely) and 10 o’clock and the central hour and minute hands are treated with Super-LumiNova. A nice design detail, the blunt-tipped hands and indices echo the bezel’s claws.
Like the Masterpiece, the new Aikonic Triple Retrograde is fitted with a modular automatic movement. Using a Sellita SW 200 base (clone of ETA 2824) to keep the price in check, the module for the retrograde indications – ML291 – has been developed and assembled by Maurice Lacroix. This movement runs at a 4Hz frequency and stores a modest 38 hours of power reserve. The decoration is pleasant, with an openworked rotor with Geneva stripes and polished bevels, and bridges decorated with the M logo.
The Aikonic Master Triple Retrograde joins the Aikonic lineup and retails for CHF 6,450. More information at mauricelacroix.com.




