The Singular Löbner Sledge Sports Watch

How many integrated sports watches are there on the market? A lot, really a lot. But besides mainstream brands, each offering their own take on the concept – Rolex with the Land-Dweller, IWC with the Ingenieur, Tissot with the PRX, just to name a few – isn’t there a place for more niche, singular models? Of course there is, as we’ve seen with many independent watchmakers bringing their own vision to the luxury sports watch concept. Yet, there has to be something different, something unique in the design or functionalities that will distract your eye from the easy choices mentioned above. This is what Löbner, a recently revived Munich-based brand originally founded in 1862, wants to do with its latest watch, the Sledge, a time-only evolution of its inaugural model, the Steelracer chronograph.

What is Löbner? As we discovered during our conversation with Emmanuel Dietrich, managing partner of the brand, this watchmaker didn’t pop out of the blue, despite having been relaunched recently. A typical case of German luxury and engineering, the modern side of the brand pays tribute to an old German watch factory founded in 1862 by Franz Ludwig Löbner. The company specialised in manufacturing portable short-time measurement timekeepers, with devices capable of measuring 1/100th and 1/1000th of a second. Löbner pieces have measured time at the Olympics and timed multiple world records in motorsport. As such, the brand’s return was marked by the launch of the Steelracer chronograph, a nod to the time when the brand specialised in short time measurement, featuring an unusual display and a contemporary, integrated design that incorporates a few notable tricks and a real sense of attention to detail.

Now, about a year and a half after its return, Löbner presents its second watch collection, a variation around the design first presented with the chronograph, now adapted to a sleeker time-only watch. But as we’ll discover, the Löbner Sledge Automatic isn’t just a case with a three-hand display. There’s more than meets the eye. At first sight, this new collection – comprised of  8 references – relies on the classic ingredients of the genre, starting with a lugless, angular tonneau-shaped case. It is sleeker than the Steelracer was, mostly due to the absence of a graduated bezel, but also thanks to redefined proportions. The inspiration and design are identical, yet presented in a cleaner, slightly more restrained, and approachable way.

The Löbner Sledge Automatic is a nicely proportioned watch, measuring 40.5mm in diameter, with a relatively thin case of 9.8mm. It’s not the slenderest watch in the category, yet anything under 10mm is already pleasant on the wrist. One of the advantages of integrated designs is the compactness of the case. Its length is 41.8mm (excl. the protruding link), making this time-only model a charm on the wrist. It might appear a bit wide, but once strapped around the wrist, it feels right at home. You’ll also quickly notice that the fit and finish are high, competing with some of the established luxury watchmakers aforementioned. It’s neat, solid, full of details, and the watch isn’t too heavy (145g on steel bracelet, 115g on rubber strap).

Two features give this watch a unique personality. First, in line with the chronograph, the right side of the case is home to a patented crown protection slider, which gave its name to this collection. The sledge device adds a tactile connection to the watch, with a satisfying action. Slide it up, with an undeniable sense of German luxury (understand sharp, mechanical), and it will reveal a classic push-pull crown. There’s another interesting feature that doesn’t reveal its nature immediately. Some specs of interest, the watch is water-resistant to 100m and features a sapphire crystal dial side, and a solid steel screwed back.

Instead of having an external rotating bezel, which inevitably breaks the sleekness of the design, Löbner has opted for a second trick, once again a tribute to short-time measurements of the past. As you can see, the dial consists of two elements, with a raised minutes flange. The latter actually lets you record time intervals – on a 60-minute basis, like a dive watch – thanks to the rotating, lightly fluted bezel. There is no additional crown as you’d find in a compressor-like watch, but a clean, unidirectional bezel that remains almost invisible to the wearer. This also guarantees the water-resistance of the watch, thanks to a mechanism named “inner circle lock” – the brand even claims that it “is the first mechanical wristwatch to feature a mechanism for adjusting the minute scale on the dial by means of a clockwise rotating bezel that can be set to the minute and is water-resistant to 10 ATM.” To be confirmed…

As for the dial, this new Löbner Sledge Automatic opts for a clean, no-date display. In addition to the stepped layout with a rotating inner bezel for the minutes, the Sledge also comes with a clean dial design, almost industrial in its approach. Available in black, blue, dark green or silver, all models have a sunray-brushed effect and a touch of warmth thanks to the gold-coloured hands.

Underneath the solid screwed back is the calibre Löbner 6717, based on the La Joux-Perret G101. This automatic movement offers a solid power reserve of 68 hours and is regulated within chronometric standards, at -4/+6 seconds per day. The fine adjustment and assembly of the watches is carried out in Germany. The collection, available in four colours, also includes options for an integrated steel bracelet or a rubber strap in black, blue or green. Both are closed by a butterfly folding clasp, but lack a quick-change system.

Available exclusively through Bucherer stores, the Löbner Sledge Automatic is priced at EUR 8,600 on a rubber strap and EUR 9,600 on a bracelet. It’s certainly not in the accessible segment of the market; however, the overall quality of the watch is undeniable, as is the uniqueness of its design and features. The overall execution is certainly higher than many will expect and deserves to be seen in the metal. Sometimes, we have to think outside the box and look elsewhere. The industry has more to offer than its 50-ish usual suspects… More details at lbnr.com.