More Than Just a Camera-Inspired Watch, The Compact Leica ZM 12 Small Seconds

Leica’s relationship with mechanical watches is still relatively young (even though some watches have existed during the 1990s), yet it has a solid foundation, as we explained in our article here, and in an interview with Dr Andreas Kaufmann, Chairman of the Supervisory Board of Leica Camera AG, who has been a key player in the company’s modern resurgence. Leica has approached this new business with the same philosophy that has shaped its cameras for over a century: remove everything that isn’t essential, engineer the details that remain to an exceptionally high standard, and create an object that feels as satisfying to use as it does to look at. 

The inaugural ZM 1 and ZM 2 of 2022 revealed Leica’s photographic DNA and historical connection to watchmaking through innovative mechanics, including the patented push-crown inspired by a camera shutter button. The ZM 11, launched in 2023, introduced a modern sports watch series with an automatic movement, an integrated-style design, and a striking multi-layered dial. The Leica ZM 12, at first glance, looks very much like a smaller ZM 11, but it is far more than a simple reduction in size, with the disappearance of the date window and the introduction of a small seconds display. The ZM 12 feels like the more cohesive watch of the two; here’s our impression.

A Compact Case with character

The most obvious difference is the 39mm case. The ZM 12 feels neater, lighter and more versatile, sitting naturally on a wider range of wrists while preserving the architectural design introduced with the ZM 11. Available in either 316L stainless steel or Grade 5 titanium, depending on the version (the silver dial model here is steel, the chocolate brown is titanium), the case retains its distinctive combination of brushed and polished surfaces (steel) or sandblasted finish (titanium), along with a sharply defined bezel and short integrated lugs. At 13mm thick, it isn’t a particularly thin watch, but its compact diameter and curved profile keep it from feeling bulky. Weight is another pleasant surprise, with the titanium version tipping the scales at just 52 grams (without the strap).

The double-domed sapphire crystal, with anti-reflective coating on both sides, recalls the curved front element of a Leica lens. Like its larger sibling, the ZM 12 is built as a proper everyday sports watch. The screw-down crown ensures 100m of water resistance.

A Cleaner Dial

If the reduced size improves wearability, the dial may be the ZM 12’s greatest strength. The ZM 11 relies on 3 classic central hands and a date window at 3 o’clock, a practical complication that inevitably interrupts the symmetry. With the ZM 12, Leica gets rid of the latter and introduces a recessed and snailed small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock, creating a far more balanced layout.

The dual-layer dial remains as it is one of the collection’s defining features. Constructed from two ultra-thin brass plates, the upper layer is precisely cut so that the lower surface is revealed around the openings. Hand-lacquered edges accentuate the effect, creating shifting shadows and colour transitions at different viewing angles – this effect is particularly visible on the blue model, which we have not photographed here, but features orange-toned edges. The applied indices, double index at 12, and broad baton hands are filled with Grade A Super-LumiNova. The minutes track is printed on the inner bezel. It is a minimalist dial, but never a plain one. Like a Leica camera, the closer you look, the more carefully considered details emerge.

The collection is offered in four distinct variants. Pictured here are the Silver Grey offering the most restrained appearance, and the Titanium Chocolate Black, combining the lightweight case with rich brown tones. There are also Steel Blue Orange with a blue dial and bright orange accents, and Olive Black, with subtle military undertones.

A Swiss Movement Behind the German Design

Unlike the hand-wound calibres found in the ZM 1 and ZM 2, the ZM 12 uses the automatic Leica calibre LA-3002, developed with renowned movement specialist Chronode in Switzerland.

The movement operates at 28,800 vibrations/hour and delivers a comfortable 60-hour power reserve. Leica also quotes an accuracy of -4/+6 seconds per day, measured in five positions, placing it comfortably within chronometer territory despite not carrying COSC certification. The calibre displays only the essentials: hours, minutes and small seconds, and that simplicity feels entirely appropriate. The decoration is deliberately matte and clean, staying in line with the finishing you’d expect from a high-end Leica camera. Solid, never ostentatious, precise.

Straps and Everyday Practicality

One of the great features carried over from the ZM 11 is Leica’s Easy Change System. Activated by a discreet shutter-inspired red button integrated into the case, the mechanism allows straps to be swapped in seconds without tools (it is genuinely one of the best systems I have tried). The watch can be worn on vulcanised rubber straps, woven textile straps and matching steel or titanium bracelets. All were designed specifically for the ZM 12’s proportions. Note that they are not interchangeable with the larger ZM 11, but they integrate beautifully with the smaller case.

Thoughts and Price

The ZM 11 introduced Leica’s vision of a modern sports watch. The ZM 12 feels even more resolved. The smaller case wears better for most wrists, while removing the date in favour of a small seconds display gives the dial a welcome sense of balance. Combined with the original dual-layer construction, the high-quality Chronode-developed movement and excellent finishing, it is a watch that succeeds by staying faithful to Leica’s long-standing design philosophy of focusing on the essentials.

As for the relevance of it as a Leica-branded object, its beauty lies in the fact that it doesn’t scream photography. It is a watch that has a certain level of Leica DNA, but not through the use of overly obvious details. There are uncanny references, of course, such as the button for the quick-change bracelet system, or the black ring with technical inscriptions around the movement that is undoubtedly linked to those found around lenses. The dial pattern could also be seen as a reference to rolling shutters, but it all remains well controlled. No gimmicky Oculus diaphragm, as in the Valbray EL1 Chronograph Leica Limited Edition or overly visible red logos, for instance… What makes this Leica ZM 12 watch a true Leica product lies in the minimalistic design and the attention to quality. 

Starting at below EUR 7,000, the Leica ZM 12 offers an original design backed by genuine technical substance, delivering one of the most distinctive alternatives in today’s premium sports watch segment. For the models in the pictures, prices are EUR 7,250 for the Silver Grey on a steel bracelet and EUR 7,200 for the Titanium Chocolate Black on a rubber strap. For more details, please visit www.leica-camera.com.