The Lang & Heyne Hektor II, the Evolution of the Brand’s Elegant Sports Watch (Incl. Video)

A luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet from Dresden that looks like nothing else on the market, with a highly distinct personality, is how we could define the Hektor, the more casual, everyday-friendly offering by Dresden-based, high-end manufacture Lang & Heyne. The watch was first introduced in 2021 and marked a fundamental shift in the brand’s collection, which is mainly known for its classic-looking, highly decorated watches. But now, the Hektor is back with multiple improvements all around to become the Hektor II.

The first-gen Hektor

When you think about Lang & Heyne, you might have in mind watches such as the Friedrich or the Anton. Classic high-end watches with a slightly baroque touch and, when you turn them around, beautifully constructed and decorated movements in the pure German tradition. It’s something that we’ve been able to witness for ourselves when visiting the manufacuture, and make sure to check our video to discover it too.

When the Hektor was released in 2021, it was an important watch for the brand. Not only was it its first foray in the field of casual, elegant sports watches with an integrated steel bracelet, but it was also its new entry-level model. But how do you build such a model while retaining the strong DNA of the classic models? The answer is a slightly unusual, very unique model that doesn’t have much in common with the usual suspects. It’s not angular or ultra-sharp, it’s not ultra-thin either, and it doesn’t feature a bezel with screws or multiple facets. And, in a way, knowing how crowded this market is, it’s good to see something that stands out. But now it’s time for this Hektor to receive some upgrades, and that’s what we’ll discover now with the Lang & Heyne Hektor II.  

The Lang & Heyne Hektor II

Most of the updates for the new Hektor II are located on the movement side. However, since we haven’t reviewed Edition 1, let’s take a closer look at the design. Visually, the Hektor II retains the same shape and case construction as before. And yes, it certainly breaks with the conventions of the category, with its case full of curves, which can be found on the domed bezel, the onion-shaped crown, the curved lateral guards on both sides and the domed crystal. The lineage with other watches from the brand is still visible in the connection between the case and bracelet, with the signature triple-lug module. Overall, there’s a bit of a baroque approach to the design, which aligns with the brand’s DNA.

The Hektor II is a nicely proportioned watch, despite not being an ultra-thin model. It measures 40mm in diameter and 10.95mm in thickness, giving it a nice presence on the wrist while remaining comfortable. And the fact that there are no sharp angles makes it pleasant to wear and touch. It’s water-resistant to 50m, enough for such a watch, but a bit more would be welcome. 

The dial is equally original and different. Now in a black galvanised colour – the Hektor 1 was available in three limited editions in blue, grey and green – it retains its distinctive design elements, all inspired by the petticoat. This can be found on the dial’s texture with a repetitive pattern in the centre, but also the applied luminous hour markers. The chapter ring has a strong concentric pattern, adding a nice depth. The hands are also quite unique with their stylised arrow tips, but the most distinctive element surely is the petticoat-shaped cock cutout at 6 o’clock that mimics the design of the bridges on the back and lets you see some of the movement’s wheels underneath. 

As for the bracelet, you’ll find a 5-link profile that follows the curvature of the casebands and combines brushed and polished surfaces. It is closed by a butterfly folding clasp and is attached to the case with screws, and its shape doesn’t allow for any rubber or leather straps. There’s also no micro-adjustment system, which would have been a nice evolution.

The updated movement

Let’s now take a look at what has changed the most for the Hektor II, and that’s the movement. Being the brand’s entry-level model, the movement is slightly simpler and less intricate in terms of finishing than what you’d find in a Friedrich watch, for instance. It’s made by Uhren-Werke-Dresden or UWD, a sister company of Lang & Heyne. Still, it is a very nice movement with complex architecture and quite impressive design, with so many bridges visible. Also, a rare feature for the elegant sports watch category, it is a hand-wound movement. 

For this new generation, the movement has been refined visually and technically. It has a new bridge geometry and switches to a full central seconds bridge, and longer finger bridges for the gear train. Also, it now incorporates a free-sprung regulation using six eccentric weights to enhance isochronism and timekeeping precision. Finally, it comes with a dual Incafix bearing for the escape wheel to reduce friction and improve rate stability. 

A nicely finished movement, with all the bridges bevelled and the top surfaces straight-brushed for a modern look. Most of the movement is made of rhodium-plated brass, but the gear train and mainspring barrel are now made from untreated German silver, adding nice contrast to the previously monochromatic calibre. This movement operates at a 3Hz frequency and stores a 46-hour power reserve.

Thoughts

There’s no denying that the Lang & Heyne Hektor II, just like the first generation, is a rather unique and unusual watch. It doesn’t play within the same codes as the category’s classics, which could be for the best. That said, it’s a watch with a strong personality that needs to be seen in the metal to be fully understood.  On the other hand, there’s great attention to detail on all elements of the watch. And the improvements made to the movement, which look quite spectacular, are a welcome addition. Overall, it’s a watch for those who think outside of the box and want something different from the rest of the crowd. 

Availability & Price

The new black edition of the Lang & Heyne Hektor II is released as a limited run of 99 pieces, each priced at EUR 19,999 before taxes. Not a cheap watch for sure, but in line with the competition, such as the Czapek Antarctique, the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner or the Speake Marin Ripples – to name other takes on the integrated sports watch category by indie watchmakers.

For more details, please visit www.lang-und-heyne.de.