Kiwame Tokyo Launches its Third Chapter, the Accessible MUNE Series

A fairly new brand from Japan with the goal of delivering “honest watchmaking from Asakusa” and “affordable Japanese watches,” Kiwame Tokyo has made quite some noise with its first two releases, the Kurotsuki and Usuki models as its inaugural pieces, and the IWAO Field series at the end of last year. Mixing vintage Calatrava elements, refined dials, modern details and a subtle Japanese inspiration, these watches are not only very pleasing, but their prices are more than fair (something we don’t often say these days…) The third series, with the MUNE Usuki and MUNE Kurotsuki, is not going to change the recipe.

Built on the same overall platform as the two earlier collections, the new Kiwame Tokyo MUNE Series comes back to the initial style of the Kurotsuki and Usuki models, while the IWAO series had a sportier edge and was categorised as a field watch. The new collection is still called a field watch by the brand, even though I’d tend to call it a Japanese take on the Calatrava. And in that regard, the connection with the inaugural collection is clear.

Let’s start with what hasn’t changed: the case. The MUNE Series retains the same 38mm x 9.5mm case as the previous collection, with an undeniable vintage charm, yet a certain edginess that gives it a Japanese touch. Classic elements of a Calatrava-styled watch are present, such as a refined, bevelled and vertically brushed stepped bezel framing a flat sapphire crystal. The case includes a solid steel screwed back, a thin middle section with polished and brushed surfaces, a relatively short lug-to-lug of 46mm and is pleasantly resistant to 100m of depth, even with a push-pull crown. A classic case design with a twist, mixing tool-watch and dress-watch vibes.

The dial of the Kiwame Tokyo MUNE is in the same vein. Classic at first, but with modern and Japanese inspirations. Available in two versions, MUNE Usuki for the ivory version, and MUNE Kurotsuki for the black model, the base of the dial is lacquered. The cream-toned one relies on a traditional Japanese hue slightly warmer than a typical ivory tone. The black model has more depth and contrast, and an edgier vibe. While having a certain Breguet-like appearance at first, the applied Arabic numerals are unique to the brand and surprisingly refined. These are paired with a distinctive index at 12 o’clock, shaped to resemble the ridge of a traditional Japanese roof, named “mune” in Japanese.

The applied numerals rise prominently from the dial and are either finished in matte black for the Usuki version or vertically brushed for the Kurotsuki model. A finely printed minute track circles the outer edge of the dial, with luminous paint applied to some or all hour markers, depending on the version. The hands are baton-style with a subtle raised ridge running through their centre, and a lumed insert. The second hand, carried over from the two previous models, is either steel or blued, with a luminous element shaped like the great roof of Kaminarimon Gate in Asakusa. Finally, this Kiwame Tokyo Mune Series features a more detailed railroad minute track, giving it a 1940s chronometer vibe.

Inside the case is the same classic automatic movement as previous watches, the Miyota 9039. It runs at a 4Hz frequency and stores about 42 hours of power reserve. It is presented here in a time-only version. It is adjusted to a decent accuracy of -10/+15 seconds/day, and allows the keep the price reasonable, durability and dependable performance.

Worn on a calf leather strap with quick-release spring bars, the new Kiwame Tokyo MUNE Usuki and MUNE Kurotsuki are, once again, fairly priced, at USD 690. The watches will be available from April 15th, 2025, at 10:00 AM Japan Time at kiwametokyo.com.