Not all images were able to load for printing. Please close the print window and try again. The new IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Retrograde Chronograph in Armor Gold
A sophisticated model focusing on material innovation, paired with technical charisma.
The Portugieser line is one of IWC’s iconic collections, tracing its origins back to the late 1930s when Portuguese businessmen sought precision marine chronometer-grade wristwatches with oversized cases and clear dials. Since then, the Portugieser family has evolved into a flagship line balancing classic elegance with technical prowess, blending clean, legible design with complications that celebrate traditional watchmaking craftsmanship. The Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph stands out as a complex and compelling Portugieser, first introduced in 2020 and combining a one-minute flying tourbillon with a retrograde date and a flyback chronograph, complications rarely united.
In 2023, another Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph reference held special significance via its association with Lewis Hamilton, the Formula 1 World Champion and long-time IWC partner (back then), which introduced a platinum case and teal dial to the Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph platform. The latest model takes a different path, emphasising material innovation and refined near-monochrome aesthetics, without losing any of the technical charisma.
Measuring 43.5mm in diameter and 15.9mm thick, the case of the latest edition of Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph IW394009 is crafted from IWC’s proprietary 18-carat Armor Gold alloy with an enhanced microstructure for significantly improved hardness compared to conventional gold, offering superior scratch resistance and durability. The case finishes alternate between brushed and polished, and water resistance is rated at 30 meters, underscoring the focus on refined wearability over sport.
The dial is finished in deep Obsidian black, created through a multi-step process involving 15 layers of translucent lacquer, which produces a surface with remarkable depth and texture. The gold-plated hands and applied solid gold indices add warmth and contrast, in harmony with the case’s Armor Gold tone. The signature Portugieser elements are retained, slender leaf-shaped hands and clean Arabic numerals, but with the added complexity of the retrograde date display arching at 9 o’clock. At 6 o’clock, the flying tourbillon attracts attention, comprising 56 parts that weigh just 0.675 grams, spinning beneath the dial. Meanwhile, the flyback chronograph complication positions its combined hours and minutes totaliser at 12 o’clock.
Powering the Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph is IWC’s in-house calibre 89900, comprising 375 components and decorated to the highest standards, with Geneva stripes and circular graining. This automatic chronograph movement operates at a 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, features a 68-hour power reserve, and incorporates a column-wheel-controlled flyback chronograph mechanism. Silicon components form the pallet lever and escape wheel, coated with IWC’s Diamond Shell technology to reduce friction and optimise energy transmission, ensuring consistent performance and longevity. The integrated stop-seconds mechanism is useful for precise time-setting. The movement is visible through the sapphire case back, with a solid gold oscillating weight.
The watch is delivered on a black Santoni alligator leather strap, closed with a matching 18-carat Armor Gold folding clasp. Priced at EUR 149,000, the IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph (IW394009) is a limited edition of 100 pieces. For more details, please visit www.iwc.com.
