Vibrant Stone Dials for the 38mm Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon

If there were a concise guide to the latest trends in watchmaking, it would likely feature compact unisex case sizes, vibrant colours and stone dials. Bang on trend, Audemars Piguet’s latest trilogy of compact 38mm Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon models flaunts vibrant-coloured stone dials sourced from around the world. As part of the brand’s 150th anniversary celebrations, the new models are proof positive that smaller-sized cases are not incompatible with complications.

Catering to smaller, slimmer wrist sizes, in 2023 AP’s Code 11:59 appeared in 38mm cases with a lean height of 9.6mm and a textured dial. Following the time-and-date model, AP’s ultra-thin calibre 2968 (aka RD# 3) flying tourbillon movement – one of the lightest, and at one point one of the thinnest tourbillon complications on the market – was fitted inside the 38mm Code 11.59.

The three new references tap into the stone dial trend that was all the rage in the swinging 1960s, Piaget being one of the leading exponents. In the same period, AP also incorporated stone dials into its repertoire and, more recently, produced a stunning 37mm Royal Oak with a turquoise dial.

Using wafer-thin slices of red ruby root from Tanzania, blue sodalite from Brazil and luscious green malachite from Zambia, the vibrant-coloured dials are matched to precious metal cases to exalt their tonalities. The ruby root comes in a white gold case, the sodalite in pink gold and the malachite in yellow gold. The multifaceted case architecture, with its highly stylised lugs, slim bezel, octagonal case middle and crown, is highlighted with satin-brushed surfaces and brightly polished bevels. The water-resistance rating remains at 30m, and the crown, benefitting from a recent design evolution, features more pronounced indentations.

Allowing the stones to work their magic and show off their individual veining, the dial omits the applied indices. The aperture at 6 o’clock, framed in the same gold as the case, exposes the one-minute flying tourbillon beating at a frequency of 3Hz. As a flying tourbillon supported only from below, the spectacle is guaranteed. Also crafted in gold, the semi-openworked hour and minute hands have a touch of luminescence at their tips. Matching the tone of the stone dial, the opaline decorating the rounded brass minutes flange features golden-coloured numerals.

AP’s calibre 2968, specifically designed for watches under 41mm, made its debut in 2022 inside the Royal Oak RD#3 (first in 39mm then in 37mm). Just 3.4mm thick, the ultra-light titanium tourbillon movement with a 50-hour power reserve has a peripheral drive and a high-amplitude escapement to enhance energy distribution and precision. The sapphire crystal on the caseback reveals the openworked bridges of calibre 2968, the 22k gold rotor (matching case material) and the traits tirés finish applied to the mainplate and bridges in lieu of traditional Côtes de Genève.

The colour-matched alligator straps with gold triple-folding clasps can be swapped for rubber-coated straps available from the brand. Limited to 150 pieces in each stone variant, the price is CHF 140,000. More information at audemarspiguet.com.