The Calatrava-Inspired Horologically Unique HU-01 Finale Series, Smaller and with Diamond Dials

Like many microbrands, Singapore-based Horologically Unique was fueled by a passion for watches and the desire to create something personal, something that would first answer the own requirements of the creator. In this case, the idea was to offer a watch that respects as much as possible the Patek Philippe Calatrava 96, basically the blueprint of the timeless dress watch, but at a price that would be attainable for most. Dubbed the HU-01 Series, this resulted in a pair of truly attractive 36mm watches powered by a classic Peseux. Following its successful trajectory, it is now time for Horologically Unique to close this specific chapter by introducing the HU-01 Finale Series. And it combines true respect for its inspiration as well as stones on the dials.

As the man behind Horologically Unique explains, the overall concept of the Finale Series remains the same as with the inaugural HU-01 collection: compact dress watches made to be accessible alternatives to the vintage, rare and usually high-priced Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 96. However, while the initial release was clean, classic and equipped with Breguet numerals on the dial, the two watches that form the HU-01 Finale Series are rather different and pay tribute to even rarer versions with diamond dials.

While these new versions of the Horologically Unique HU-01 seem to be all about the new dials, there are more evolutions to be reported. And the first one concerns the proportions. Originally fitted with a 36mm case, the Finale Series comes even closer to the original Ref. 96 as now housed in a case that’s only 34mm in diameter, 10mm in thickness (or 7mm excl. crystal) and 41mm in length. This deliberate choice aims at offering a true classic, but also brings the small seconds sub-dial closer to the edge, an issue that some reported on the first versions.

This elegant case retains the same structure as before – the classic 3-part design that first came on the 96 – with its straight lugs and stepped bezel. Depending on the version, the case differs in finishing, being either brushed (grey dial) or polished (jade dial). As a nod to the past, the caseback is now closed and features perlage on the inside surfaces, together with the model’s engravings. An additional sapphire caseback, this time with the engravings on the external side, is also included with the watch.

As mentioned above, there are two versions of the Horologically Unique HU-01 Finale Series, both fitted with lab-grown diamonds, in a layout that is similar to rare gem-set versions of the Calatrava 96. This means a combination of three baguette-cut and eight round brilliant diamonds. The classic HU-01 Finale pairs its brushed case with a silver-toned, vertically brushed dial, a railway small seconds track, polished pearls for the minutes and leaf-shaped hands – a nice contrast between the matte surfaces of the dial and case and the brilliance of the stones.

The second version, the HU-01 Finale Yu, comes with a Burma jade dial (Yu meaning jade in Chinese). This more precious version retains the same position for the lab-grown diamond markers, but has a cleaner layout with only white baton indices for the small seconds and dauphine-shaped hands. And, like before, no brand or logo on the dial.

Inside the case, no changes to report as the HU-01 Finale Series still relies on the hand-wound Peseux ETA 7001. This tried-and-tested movement is both compact and thin, adapting perfectly to a 34mm dress watch. Here it is presented in a version with stripes, perlage and blue-toned screws. The movement runs at a 3Hz frequency and stores about 42 hours of power reserve.

Worn on grey goat leather straps, the Horologically Unique HU-01 Finale Series is limited to 80 pieces, while the Yu version with a jade dial is limited to 30 pieces. Priced at SGD 2,580 (about USD 2,000) and SGD 2,980 (about USD 2,350) respectively, these will be available from www.horologicallyunique.com.