Back in 1972, Gucci was one of the first fashion houses to venture into watchmaking. Since then, the fashion powerhouse has been associated with accessible ‘branded’ fashion watches. On the occasion of its centenary, Gucci steps up its horological game announcing its entry into the world of luxury watchmaking. The new collection has been designed by creative director Alessandro Michele and features sophisticated mechanical movements, including the brand’s first proprietary calibres. We managed to have a look at this new collection.
The new Haute Horlogerie collection debuts with four lines – Gucci 25H, G-Timeless, Grip and Haute Joaillerie watches – and over 30 different models. It includes tourbillons, jumping hours, micro-rotor movements and jewelled watches. These will only be presented in flagship points of sale, such as the Paris jewellery boutique on Place Vendôme.
The Gucci 25H collection is named after one of Alessandro’s Michele favourite numbers. The model is the Creative Director’s take on one of the most successful categories today – the luxury sports watch with integrated bracelet. As such, it is envisaged by the Florentine brand as a future pillar of its watch collection with new iterations to be expected.
The Gucci 25H is inspired by modern architecture and expressed by the continuous rhythm of the horizontal satin-brushed lines traversing the watch dial and the signature Interlocking G logo. 40mm in diameter (at least for now), the cushion-shaped case features a flat bezel, a three-layer profile and a hidden crown. It is extended by a five-link integrated bracelet closed by a butterfly folding clasp.
Importantly, the Gucci 25H is equipped with the brand’s first proprietary movements. The micro-rotor calibre GUCCI GG727.25 family has been developed and is manufactured in the Kering watch manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, alongside products from sister companies Ulysse Nardin and Girard-Perregaux. It is available in two versions with a ‘traditional’ regulator (with a variable inertia balance wheel held under a full bridge) or a tourbillon regulator visible dial side.
This new collection doesn’t come as a complete surprise; global luxury brands such as Louis Vuitton, Hermès, Chanel or Ralph Lauren have already presented high watchmaking collections. It is now time for Kering to rely on its self-owned watch manufacturers to develop horology for its most successful luxury brand.
Quick facts – Gucci 25G Time Only: 40mm x 7.2mm – stainless steel case – sapphire crystal – exhibition caseback with sapphire crystal – water-resistant to 30m – automatic calibre GUCCI GG727.25 with micro-rotor – 21,600vph – 60-hour power reserve – integrated steel bracelet with butterfly clasp – EUR 8,200 and EUR 10,500 with a diamond-set bezel
Quick facts – Gucci 25G Tourbillon: 40mm x 8mm – platinum or gold case – sapphire crystal – exhibition caseback with sapphire crystal – water-resistant to 30m – automatic calibre GUCCI GG727.25 with micro-rotor – 21,600vph – 60-hour power reserve – integrated platinum or steel bracelet with butterfly clasp – EUR 170,000 in platinum and EUR 120,000 in gold
For more information, please visit www.gucci.com.