Holthinrichs Presents the Signature LAB Series 1 Small Seconds and GMT

10 years ago, a young architect named Michiel Holthinrichs had the idea to create watches… But not like every other young indie watchmaker. What made it unique? The Ornament 1 was the world’s first 3D-printed stainless steel watch. And it certainly had a design of its own, inspired by Michiel’s previous career. The specially-commissioned watch signified the beginning of Holthinrichs Watches. 10 years later, the brand has grown and defines itself with the concept of Horlogerie Brut, where textures, finishes and colours are directly derived from the manufacturing processes. And to celebrate one decade of existence, Holthinrichs presents two new versions of its latest collection, the Signature Series, in raw LAB versions with Small Seconds or GMT displays.

In only 10 years, the young Dutch indie brand has made some noise, not only with its 3D-printed cases in most metals you can imagine (including bronze, titanium, gold or platinum) but also defied conventions with exceptional designs, or even created an entirely Dutch-made movement with the Ornament Nouveau. Now, in 2026 and with 10 years of existence, the team consists of 16 people, and the brand carries several collections, including a fairly accessible yet impactful one named the Signature Series. Still based on a very strong design, this collection had to make some concessions, the main one being to replace the 3D-printed case with a classically machined one. Except that the Signature Series still incorporates a watch named LAB. And that specific model, using a titanium 3D-manufactured case, is now the base for two new versions, the 10th-anniversary Signature LAB 1.S Small Seconds and Signature LAB 1.GMT.

Let’s start with what is familiar: the case. These two new editions are identical and, share the exact same case design, manufacturing and dimensions as the central-second Signature Ornament LAB Series. This means a 3D-printed titanium case, typical of the LAB series by Holthinrichs, with a unique and impactful design. Measuring only 38.5mm in diameter and 9.85mm in thickness on both models, the case is fairly compact, but makes an impression… The overall shape follows the design language created for the Signature Ornament series, with sculptural yet fluid lug elements framing the case body, showing impressive curves and twists inspired by architecture and classic car design.

Being LAB models, the case of the Signature LAB 1.S Small Seconds and Signature LAB 1.GMT are crafted using high-end selective laser melting, followed by precise milling and extensive hand-finishing. Benefitting from the high precision of this process, Holthinrichs gave the LAB Series its own lugs, as thin as possible, openworked and almost floating around the case container. This also allows for a reduced weight for greater comfort, a curved caseback to improve wrist position, and a unique design that almost defies logic. The case is then partially finished and partially left untouched, revealing raw 3D-printed textures with hand-decorated details.

Let’s now talk about the dials, which, to remain consistent with the previous Signature LAB models, also have quite some stories to tell about textures and materials. Both timepieces feature a distinctive copper oxide patina dial, but Holthinrichs claims that these were the “most challenging reliefs to date (…) taking the concept of optical layering and patination to an entirely new level.” For the Small Seconds model, a tribute to the first watches made by Michiel with a Peseux 7001 movement, the brand has created deeply carved lines that radiate outward from the subdial, with the deepest carvings holding the richest layer of azure-blue oxide patina, contrasting with the more brown-green nuances on the higher levels. This is paired with a gold-toned laser-engraved logo, opeworked hands, and floating hour markers integrated within the inner flange.

The second model is a slightly more complex, visually and mechanically, version with an office GMT complication. The copper oxide patina dial here features a multi-layered relief with a projection of a globe (viewed from the North Pole) emerging from the dial surface as an intermediate layer. The globe is hand-brushed using a micro-brush to selectively remove excess patina, resulting in a darker brown tone that contrasts with the background. The most pronounced layer, the GMT indicators, stands out through its Breguet-style design, brass colour, and brushed finishing, creating contrast with the layers beneath, and matching the central GMT hand. Here, both the central hands and the makers are filled with lume.

As for the mechanics, in line with the previous versions with central seconds and to keep the price reasonable, Holthinrichs still relies on top-grade Sellita SW300 base movements (an alternative to the ETA 2892), known for their reliability and thinness. The Signature LAB 1.S Small Seconds features a Sellita SW360, while the Signature LAB 1.GMT is equipped with a Sellita SW330. Viewed through the transparent back, the highlight remains the patinated, hand-carved and heat-treated rotor, with a tungsten weight that’s scraped and heat-treated to achieve beautifully subtle blue and purple tones.

Worn on expressive Rooster Leg leather straps with a signed titanium pin buckle, each version is limited to 100 pieces, with the first deliveries expected in Q3 2026. The Holthinrichs Signature LAB 1.S Small Seconds will be priced at EUR 5,900 (excl. VAT) and the Signature LAB 1.GMT at EUR 6,500 (excl. VAT).

For more details, please visit holthinrichs.com.