The Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel, now in Rose Gold and Brown

Hermès unveiled its Slim d’Hermès 10 years ago, a collection that showcases the brand’s keen appreciation for refined contemporary design with a distinctive twist. The perpetual calendar that was part of the original Slim d’Hermès range returns today in a luxurious rose gold case paired with a delectable chocolate-brown dial and the signature design elements that distinguish it as an unmistakable Hermès creation.

The flagship models of the Slim d’Hermès collection, launched in 2015, were a straightforward time-only model and a perpetual calendar complemented by a moon phase indicator and a practical GMT function with a day/night indicator. Two designers and a specialised movement developer were pivotal in the genesis of the perpetual calendar. The slim, stylish case with its angled lugs was designed by Philippe Delhotal, director of the brand’s watchmaking division, while the customised dial font was created by award-winning French graphic designer Philippe Apeloig. The ultra-thin Vaucher micro-rotor movement was fitted with an equally thin 1.4mm perpetual calendar module designed by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, co-founder of movement developer Agenhor. Hermès, as our readers know, acquired a 25% stake in Vaucher Manufacture in 2006.

The round 39.5mm rose gold case, with a lean height of just 9.06mm, features an elegant, polished finish and a pusher at 4 o’clock to set the second time zone in one-hour increments. The rich brown dial, with its contrasting brushed chapter ring and smooth centre, hosts four sub-dials: date at noon, moon phases at 3, month and leap year at 9, and second time zone at 6 o’clock. Apeloig’s airy segmented Arabic numerals are printed on the chapter ring and featured inside three of the counters. Echoing the warmth of the rose gold case, the baton hour and minute hands, the frames of the counters and the hands of the date and leap year are gilded.

The small aperture between the moon phase and GMT counters is the blue-and-white day/night indicator that doubles as a safety mechanism, turning red just after midnight to prevent the calendar from being adjusted. The moon glows with the soft iridescent light of natural mother-of-pearl and waxes and wanes against a sparkling blue aventurine sky. Playing with different textures, the calendar counters feature snailed interiors and white numerals/inscriptions.

Compared to the first editions, several dial changes underscore its unique Hermès personality. The first concerns the larger disc at 6 o’clock dedicated to the second time zone. With its contrasting speckled eggshell colour, Apeloig’s distinctive numerals are no longer arranged on the perimeter but creatively scrambled and indicated by a dark brown hand. The leap year and month counter has also been redesigned with a four-spoked gilded hand with a dark brown tip for the leap year. The months are now revealed in a flared structure emanating from the circular counter that gracefully invades the chapter ring, adding a touch of asymmetry to the composition.

As mentioned, the ultra-thin 2.6mm Vaucher H1950 automatic calibre and the 1.4mm perpetual calendar module produce a slim movement of just 4mm. Beating at 21,600vph, the movement delivers a 48-hour power reserve. Visible through the sapphire crystal on the caseback, the micro-rotor and hand-chamfered bridges are decorated with a characteristic sprinkling of “Hs”.

The Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel is paired with an Hermès Havana alligator strap. It retails for EUR 39,550. More information at hermes.com.