The Sculptural Appeal of the New Hautlence Kubera Series 1

Hautlence, the contemporary, independent Swiss watchmaking brand, has made its mark with unconventional time displays. Founded in Neuchâtel in 2004, it quickly stood out for turning time into a more theatrical experience, with the HL01 setting the tone through jumping hours and retrograde minutes. Returning to Watches & Wonders this year, Hautlence unveils a brand new collection. Named Kubera, after the Indian god of wealth and underground treasures, the Cubist-inspired case and integrated bracelet with a jumping hour display and peripheral minutes writes a new chapter in the brand’s ongoing fascination with architectural cases.

A dramatic departure from Hautlence’s large rectangular retro TV-shaped cases, which are still going strong, the eight-sided case of the Kubera marks a new direction for the brand. Composed of stepped tiers, like a miniature pyramid, the layered profile of the Kubera case continues onto the integrated, tapering bracelet. Viewed from certain angles, the case and the articulated bracelet’s armour are reminiscent of an armadillo. The bezel, which rests on top of the octagonal case, features a dramatic recessed area on either side.

Much like Cubist art that decomposes form into fragmented, often geometric, forms, the case is built from successive stepped layers, and the surface, including the crown, is sharply articulated. Finished with a sandblasted texture and thin polished bevels, the tiered platforms culminate in the brushed bezel framing the dial. Closer to a sculpture, where each plane and facet catches the light differently, the watch echoes the Cubist idea of breaking an object into different visual perspectives.

The stainless steel case, measuring 36mm in width, 43.8mm in length, and 11.3mm in height, frames the minimalist dial. In line with Hautlence’s willingness to challenge conventional watch design, time is told without hands. Decorated with an engraved geometric pattern coated in olive green lacquer, the dial, at certain angles, appears to replicate the four triangular sides of a pyramid. The jumping hours are featured in an octagonal window at noon with a turquoise background matching the colour of the circular minutes cursor that glides around the dial on a hidden track.

The Kubera Series 1 is powered by a base La Joux-Perret automatic movement with an anti-magnetic escapement. The automatic movement is paired with an Agenhor-developed jumping hours and peripheral minutes module. Beating at 28,800vph, the 244 component movement with 28 jewels delivers a robust 70-hour power reserve.

The integrated, cascading construction of the stainless steel bracelet, with progressively smaller links as it approaches the folding clasp, consolidates the watch’s architectural lines. It is fitted with a folding clasp with micro-adjustment and a quick-release system. The Series 1 in Kubera’s name suggests this is the first member of a dynasty designed to expand in the future. The Kubera retails for CHF 35,600 (excl. taxes). More information at hautlence.com.