REVIEW: Oris Artelier Calibre 112
Although it was launched at Baselworld 2016, we took some time to finally get hands on with the Oris Artelier Calibre 112. One of the reasons was that we had to reflect on the watch, its mechanics and how to position it. Its rather clean, classic, certainly not too small and manly design, is something it shares with a well-known Swiss brand that used to pride itself on these characteristics. Add to that the 10-day power reserve of the Oris and the resemblance only becomes more obvious. One way or another, Oris is delivering a magnificent package for the price, and should certainly be considered if you’re looking for a nice, fly-under-the-radar, powerful watch. So, without any further delay, please enjoy our review of the Oris Artelier Calibre 112.
Some brief history
In 2014, entry-level watch brand, Oris, did something completely unexpected. To celebrate the brand’s 110th anniversary, the company launched its very own, in-house developed movement: Calibre 110. This was a momentous occasion for the brand, and took Oris’ own team of watchmakers and designers, together with Swiss technical specialists and with L’École Téchnique Le Locle, 10 years to create. As we have come to learn, however, it only the first step in Oris’ longer term plan to reclaim its watchmaking heritage. The hand-wound Calibre 110 boasted a 10-day power reserve from a single main spring barrel, complete with a patented, non-linear power reserve indication. Offered at a very competitive price (just CHF 5,500 in steel), these limited-edition timepieces were a big hit.
Oris followed up the Calibre 110 the next year with the Calibre 111, presented in the Big Crown ProPilot. The Calibre 111 improved significantly on the Calibre 110, which, if we’re being honest, wasn’t quite perfect. (It was their very first in-house movement after all!) Based on the feedback received, and their own observations, it became clear that the Calibre 110 was not delivering a stable chronometric rate.
Oris reworked and improved the movement, and found a simple and effective solution for this problem, that didn’t cost any extra money. By making the main spring slightly longer (1.8 meters) and cutting off the delivery of power at the end of 10 days, they achieved a much more stable rate. Of course, when the main spring is fully wound, the movement will probably run a bit too fast (because of the massive torque) and towards the end, when the torque is diminished, it might run just a touch too slow, but the only real solution to that issue is a constant force mechanism, which you are not going to get in this price range.
In 2016, a third movement was introduced, the Calibre 112, which is the subject of our review today. Building on the progressions of the first two calibres, it features a 10-day power reserve (delivered by a single barrel), a patented non-linear power reserve indicator (which shows the remaining power reserve in ever greater detail as the time to wind the watch approaches), a date function, and a GMT function with day-night indicator. Let’s check it out in more detail.
Oris Artelier Calibre 112
The Artelier is part of what Oris calls its ‘Culture’ collection, which essentially means it’s intended as more of a sophisticated dress watch. As such, it’s not as sporty or robust as some of the models we’re used to seeing from the brand, but it still feels very well made and solid on the wrist, offering plenty of bang for your buck. Plus, it’s always nice to have something classy to wear with a suit to more formal occasions, or even just the office to impress your co-workers.
As far as dresses watches go, the Oris Artelier Calibre 112 is a little on the big side, at least on paper, measuring in at 43mm in diameter. On the wrist, however, it is very elegant and comfortable, thanks in large part to its short and curved lugs, which ensure a snug fit. The thin bezel, which slopes gently downwards towards the outside edge of the case also creates a visual illusion that the case is smaller than it is, whilst simultaneously creating a very large opening for the dial. Two different case options are available; one in full steel, and the other in steel with an 18k rose gold bezel and rose gold finishes on the dial.
Dial and indications
The upside of having a slightly larger case is that there is plenty of room for an uncluttered dial, even one that has as many indications as this one does. Time is indicated centrally, with small seconds shown on the slightly recessed sub-dial between 7 and 8 o’clock. Depending on which version you choose, the hands and indices are either from lume-filled 18k rose gold or steel. Just next to it, at 9 o’clock, is a small date window, with a date disc matching the colour of the dial. Over at the 3 o’clock is the much talked about patented, non-linear power reserve indicator, scaled from 0 to 10. The fact that it’s non-linear means the hand will move slower at first and gradually get faster as it comes close to the end of the power-reserve.
Just below 12 o’clock, there is another slightly recessed sub-dial for the GMT function, which shows the second time-zone in full, as well as two apertures for the day/night indicator. The top one is round and shaped like the Sun, while the bottom one is crescent-shaped like the Moon. Underneath there is a two-tone rotating disc, which turns the Sun white (or gold in the rose gold version) and the Moon dark during the day, and then the opposite at night. I particularly like how both indicators become a mix of the two colours at sunrise and sunset, a nice visual way of showing the transition from day to night, and vice versa. Each of the watch’s functions is operated through a single crown.
As nice looking as the Oris Artelier Calibre 112 is, however, what we’re really interested in is what’s going on behind the dial. Turning the watch over, a sapphire exhibition case back offers a nice view of a clean, well-made movement complete with that massive single barrel at the top. Beating at a steady 21,600 vph, it offers 240 hours (10 days) of power reserve. As with the previous two calibres, the finish is deliberately a mixture of industrial surfaces and hand finishing. The main plate is left with a simple straight graining while the important parts, such as the angles – polished by hand – or the power reserve gears are beautifully finished and, thus, highlighted.
In total, eight different variations of the Oris Artelier Calibre 112 are available. Six of them are in steel and feature your choice of a blue or opaline silver dial, paired with a steel bracelet or two different leather strap options and retail for CHF 6,400. The other two versions are a mix of 18k rose gold and steel, with opaline silver dial and two different leather strap options and retail for CHF 7,900. For more information please visit www.oris.ch.
Technical specifications Oris Artelier Calibre 112
- Case: 43mm – stainless steel / 18k rose gold and stainless steel – sapphire crystal and see-through case back with anti-reflective coating – water resistant to 5 Bar.
- Movement: mechanical with manual-winding, Calibre 112 – 240h power reserve – 21,600 vibrations/h – 40 jewels – hours, minutes, small seconds, date, power reserve indicator, GMT function with day/night indicator.
- Bracelet/Strap: stainless steel or leather strap with buckle matching the metal of the case.
- Price: Steel – CHF 6,400 / Steel & 18k Rose Gold – CHF 7,900