Breaking Down The Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT Zulu Time x Marine Nationale

While I’m no expert on the subject of Mil-Spec watches, or military-related timing instruments in general, I do know instantly if I like a watch or not. And every now and then a watch comes along that wins me over with its first impression, only to be disappointed when I see it in real life for the first time. Luckily, it also happens the other way around. Press images don’t always do a watch justice, as for me, was the case with the Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT, a watch that sounded great on paper but looked a little underwhelming at first. That was until I strapped it on, and things started to make sense little by little. So, I decided to try and break down what made me change my mind, in hopes I can shine a more detailed light on this very utilitarian watch for you. 

On a personal note, I have a deep love for Tudor. Back in 2016, I purchased my first Tudor watch, a Black Bay 79220N (yes, the ETA-powered one in black), just a week before I bought my first house with my now-wife. And if I can give you one piece of life advice; don’t do that, as it takes some explaining to your better half! Anyway, that watch is still a regularly worn wrist companion and one that I will never part with. Since then, I have handled pretty much everything that Tudor has released and the brand has continued to impress me. So much so, that I am looking to add the Black Bay 58 GMT to my collection at some point (just married = no budget). That is, until the Pelagos FXD GMT came in for a review, and despite some initial doubts, it has seriously got me thinking!

To mil-spec, or not to mil-spec

Plenty has been said about the Pelagos FXD and the collaboration with the Marine Nationale, so I won’t go over its entire legacy again. For that, I recommend checking out Brice’s explanation of the connection between the two here. Following the online discussion on the watches, including this Pelagos FXD GMT, urged me to get at least one thing confirmed by Tudor themselves; is this a true Mil-Spec watch worn and used by the members of the Aéronautique Navale Marine Nationale, or merely a commercial joint venture? The definitive answer to that is simple; it is a Mil-Spec watch that’s also made commercially available, with just one change to distinguish the two and it has nothing to do with the watch, but with the strap (more later).

Now that’s out the way, time to see what’s what with the Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT Zulu Time x Marine Nationale 2542G247NU. Quite the mouthful, brands have a tendency to overcomplicate naming watches. Anyway, the Pelagos FXD GMT is first and foremost a tool to be used and abused in training and combat situations. That means it needs to be reliable, robust and ultra-legible. And without giving away too much; it more than ticks those boxes!

Larger than life

It starts with the stout 42mm wide grade 2 titanium case, which we know from previous Pelagos FXD models. The finishing is sober, as it should be with a toolwatch after all. That said, the level at which things are done at Tudor never disappoints. Everything feels rock-solid, from the rotational feel of the bezel to the unscrewing and manipulation of the crown. In some places, edges have been bevelled or rounded off for a smoother touch, showing great attention to detail by Tudor. And with a rating of 200m water resistance, no one can really complain.

The titanium bezel, actually a touch wider than the case at 42.7mm in width, is fitted with a matte black ceramic insert with a beige-coloured 24-hour scale. One thing to note on said scale is the change in font and graduation. Obviously, that is a result of turning it into a GMT bezel, clicks and all, but it also balances everything out whereas previous models had a busier face. In contrast to the hands and markers, the numerals and markers on the bezel insert light up green at night, to signal that it’s a separate indication.

The fixed lugs of the case extend its lug-to-lug size to an admittedly very large 51.2mm. To put that in perspective, it wears just as large as an IWC Big Pilot 43. Dimensions and proportions can be influenced, positive and negative, by construction and shapes of course, and the Pelagos FXD GMT doesn’t necessarily feel like a +50mm long watch when on the wrist. I must admit that it felt larger than expected, but not that large. The flexible textile strap greatly helps with wearability, but you can’t deny this is a sizeable piece.

Black, cream… sugar?

Moving from exterior to interior, I’ve always been a fan of the black and cream colour combination of the Pelagos LHD from 2016 (side-by-side with the FXD GMT below). Somehow it just works for me, but I can understand some people might not be a fan of the ‘Faux-Patina’ style. Remember though, that this Pelagos FXD GMT watch is designed in partnership with the Aéronautique Navale of the Marine National, thus meeting their real-world demands. Faux-patina or not, it’s their decision and serves a purpose.

The Tudor Pelagos ‘Lefty’ LHD 25610TNL from 2016.

The matte black dial has a mix of applied indexes (rectangular, square, triangular) in the typical Pelagos style, with Super-LumiNova inserts. The Snowflake handset for the hours, minutes and seconds, the red line running through Tudor’s past, matches in colour yet emits a blue glow when the light goes down. The three o’clock marker is omitted to make way for the date window. Lacquered in orange, the lengthy GMT hand stands out pretty well and is easily caught at a glance to check the time. The arrow-shaped tip certainly helps of course, and matches the scale on the bezel in terms of night-time glow.

Below the 12 o’clock hour marker, the dial has a small Tudor Shield log printed in white, along with the brand’s name and a reference to its hometown of Geneva. In the bottom half, the script “Pelagos GMT” is printed in orange, with “Master Chronometer” and “200m – 660ft” below it, again in white. The final detail to drive things home is the slightly sloped minute track, which is unexpectedly narrow by the way.

Double certified

The solid grade 5 titanium caseback is adorned with the emblem of the Aéronautique Navale, and hides the MT5652-U manufacture movement. Thanks to Tudor’s push in precision and certification, this is both certified as a COSC Chronometer and a METAS Master Chronometer. That means it’s been subjected to rigorous testing, is impervious to magnetic forces up to 15,000 Gauss and runs within a deviation of -0/+5 seconds per day. On top of that, it delivers no less than 65 hours of autonomy, more than enough to get you through the most demanding situations.

Mechanically speaking, it’s a so-called Flyer or Traveller’s GMT (some call it True GMT, but that means a Caller or Office GMT is not a GMT watch). A Flyer GMT, as explained in detail here, allows for the local hour hand to be set in one-hour increments. This can be done independently, which is important, through the crown. It makes things so much easier while travelling, as you can quickly set the time to where you are and have it on the standard 12-hour scale while being able to check the time back home with the GMT hand on the 24-hour scale. Something to remember when out shopping for GMT watches!

Tudor puts the Pelagos FXD GMT Zulu Time x Marine Nationale, as it’s officially called, on a green textile single-pass strap with titanium hardware. The removable elastic textile keeper is embroidered with a French Naval Aviation roundel. This is a departure from previous models, which relied on a Velcro-style fastening system. It’s also where the version you and I can buy differs from the one supplied to the members of the Aéronautique Navale Marine Nationale, as they get two different straps with it. One to go with their summer uniform, and one to match their winter uniform. Other than that, the watch is identical and retails for EUR 4,690. It’s part of the permanent collection and can be purchased in Tudor boutiques and retailers.

Thoughts

Admittedly, I was quite sceptical when I first saw the press images of the Pelagos FXD GMT. Sure, it looked cool, but I also felt it was missing something. Don’t ask me what exactly, because I haven’t been able to pinpoint it. Perhaps it came down to me not being the biggest enthusiast for such utilitarian military-style watches in general. However, spending some time with it, and getting a feel for about a week has changed my mind for the positive. It’s a very good, solidly built watch with real-world usability. The fact it’s a proper Mil-Spec watch worn by members of the Aéronatique Navale Marine Nationale also helps in my book. It gives the Pelagos FXD GMT that extra ounce of credibility and legitimacy.

The design is cool, the finishing is beyyond good, and I still tuink there’s true value for money in it depsite the price tag of EUR 4,690. Sure, it’s not cheap but it’s also not extremely expensive for what it is. Truth be told, other brands have moved up a tier or two when it comes to honest but brilliant Traveller’s GMT watches. The one that comes closest perhaps, is Longines with the Spirit Zulu Time Titanium. And that retails for EUR 4,500,  just a smidge under the price of this one!

Is it flawless? No, it’s not, as I think it sits a bit high on the wrist due to the thickness and the fact the strap loops underneath the case, adding another mm to the overall height. The fixed lugs also give it a lug-to-lug size of almost 52mm, which means that even on my 19cm writs it wears rather large! Plus, swapping straps is a bit of a challenge as there’s not much out there, yet. Other than single-pass or NATO-style straps of course. Nevertheless, I would still consider this watch if you’re in the market for a resilient, very legible titanium GMT watch as it is simply put; very, very good!

So, have I switched sides from the Black Bay 58 GMT, to this Pelagos FXD GMT in the end? Well, no, but it’s good to sometimes get tested in your convictions of what watch is right for you! And I must say, it’s a very close call but the smaller size of the BB58 GMT won me over in the end…

For more information, please visit TudorWatch.com.