The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 All-Titanium, Now With Leather Straps

Small changes can go a long way, but when a watch goes from bracelet-only (sort of) to a leather strap, it can go a very long way. Especially when said watch is a true pioneer in the field, with historical relevance and iconic design importance. Sounds like a bold claim, but when it comes to the Porsche Design Chronograph 1, the terminology befits. In the past, we’ve seen numerous special editions take the Chronograph 1 off its integrated titanium bracelet, but now it has become permanently available on straps made from the same leather as found in the 911’s interior. With that, and the opening of the new Porsche Design Timepieces headquarters earlier this year, let’s see what’s what!

A New Home

Earlier this year, Porsche Design ushered in a new chapter for its watchmaking side of the business. Sort of coming full circle, it opened the doors of its new Timepieces Manufacture, which is actually located in the former Eterna building in Grenchen. After all, it’s a well-known fact that Eterna was Porsche Design’s watchmaking partner for many years, following on from Orfina and IWC. Porsche Design already acquired the Eterna company in 1995 (and parted ways again in 2014), and has since owned the very building Porsche Design Timepieces now moved into.

The new headquarters for Porsche Design Timepieces dates back to 1955, and traces of that more-than-half-a-century of watchmaking can still be found. The large conference room, for instance, has been cleaned and refreshed, yet the original floor and doors have been left untouched. Now, after three years of work, Porsche Design’s watches are coming off the assembly line here. When talking to Gerhard Novak and Rolf Bergmann, General Manager Timepieces for Porsche Design and CEO of the Porsche Design Timepieces Manufactory, respectively, we learned more about what this meant for the team.

Robin, MONOCHROME – The opening of this new building is sort of a full circle occasion for Porsche Design. How important of a step is this for you, as a brand?

Gerhard Novak – The first thing about the building for us, it was a dream coming true. We can now set the pace for the future, and it will support us to reach out to clients and collectors. Secondly, it belongs to us, so we’re not restricted in any way, shape or form by a lease or a landlord, and can do it exactly as we have imagined it. Now we also have the space to welcome people, owners, clubs, collectors and their cars at our facilities. We can invite them into the building, show them the manufacturing process, guide them through the collection, explain the history and heritage of the brand, of F.A. Porsche and so on. If people have a specific Porsche car, they can also configure a personal watch to match at the new Manufacture. It really is a dream for us, and we can now enter the next chapter for Porsche Design Timepieces.

So it’s also focused on being a hub instead of just a place where watches are made?

Rolf Bergmann – Absolutely, we couldn’t do that before, so we are very happy we are finally able to. With the purchase of the building, and the renovation and construction to fit our needs, it was actually a perfect move. It was in need of a renovation, as the building was quite old. If you purchase or rent a new building, you cannot do that as much, so this was perfect for us. It’s also historically significant, as its the former Eterna building where Porsche Design watches have been produced for quite some years (ie 1995-2014). It’s also located in Grenchen, where Porsche Design actually started in 1972, and where the very first watches were produced, then by Orfina. And a lot of people know us from these days, including some of our employees who have actually worked in this building.

We also did it entirely by ourselves. It is our own designers who are responsible for our timepieces that also made the plans for the building, and designed the interior of the experience centre, the lobby and so on. The same goes for determining which watch should go in which display, how the interior would be finished, what light sources we need, or what furniture would best suit the showroom. And to us this is logical, as it is exactly the way we operate.

Now that the new Manufacture is up and running, what are your expectations of it, and what can we expect in the future?

Gerhard Novak – The main expectation is that we are now able to inspire, emotionalise, and probably also convince potential and existing customers and the community in the uniqueness of our watches. We already have a lot of requests of dealerships, of collectors, of clubs and jewelers, retailers, that want to come and visit us. We can now bring what we do to life and show it to the audience. This is what we are expecting, and the building is set up as the ideal base. It couldn’t be any better.

So how does this impact your sales, and your sales channels? What are your biggest challenges, now?

Gerhard Novak – More than two-thirds of our watches are custom made to order, with the rest being our serially produced collections. In most other brands, that’s the exact opposite. For us it’s a natural way or working and we are constantly looking to adapt our sales network accordingly. As an example, we started with Watches of Switzerland in the US last year, which has been quite succesful. The custom-ordered pieces or the sports car related programs are almost all ordered through our dealerships, with the majority of our non-configurable watches are sold through our stores and specialised retailes. And it also comes down to product development, as we are now offering leather straps (for the Chronograph 1) as well, for instance.

Rolf Bergmann – The biggest challenge, which we have now done, is to set everything up the way we envisioned many years ago. From design to production and to clients, it has all fallen in line now. But we’re already looking ahead at the next challenges, as you’re never finished. There’s always the next product, the next launch, the next material or design to come. It’s a constant back-and-forth process with our employees, our partners and so on, and to stick with them so we can rely on each other. With our made-to-order collection, it has to be correct, and if it’s not correct, we cannot deliver watches. There’s no room for error, and it’s a daily challenge for us to learn and to know how to deal with it. And it’s not just the new facilities here in Grenchen, but also our network, we cannot live without our partners.

Titanium and leather

For the purists, a Porsche Design Chronograph 1 is likely to always be worn on a metal bracelet, either bare glass bead-blasted titanium or a black titanium-carbide coated one. If you want a bit more versatility, you’d be happy to learn that just before summer, Porsche Design expanded its car-based leather strap option from the Globetimer and custom-built Chronograph series to the Chronograph 1. That means you can now change the look and feel of your Chronograph 1 in seconds, thanks to the convenient built-in quick-release system. Go for the full-on sports feel on the bracelet, or tone it down a touch with one of the smooth leather straps, available in four colours: that’s now entirely up to you!

Other than that, nothing has changed to the exterior of the Chronograph 1, so you still get that shaped 40.8mm by 14.15mm case reminiscent of the 1972 original. A sapphire crystal on both sides covers the dial and movement, and the caseback itself is engraved with the watch’s individual number. The crown is knurled for a bit of extra grip, and the pump-style pushers display a purposeful simplicity in their design.

Familiar traits all around

Similar to pretty much all Chronograph 1s before it, this one comes with that signature race-derived matte black dial. Some changes have been made from the closed-caseback 1975 version of the all-titanium Chronograph 1, which will surely please the fans, as we explained when we first encountered it. The white scales and markings look as crisp as ever on the matte black backdrop, with a modern integrated PD logo, as well as a reference to the fact this is powered by a chronometer-certified movement underneath the day/date window. The signature red-orange central chronograph hand is still very much part of the game too, of course.

The Chronograph 1 still relies on the Calibre WERK 01.240, a proprietary automatic chronograph which is, as mentioned, a COSC-certified chronometer. One thing that’s important to make clear with regard to the movement is that it is not made by Porsche Design itself nor in the new Grenchen facility, despite being called a Manufacture (blame language interpretations for that one). Running at a rate of 28,800vph, it delivers 48 hours of running time. The movement is finished in black with an array of PD logos engraved into it. Contrast comes from the running gears, levers, jewels and the rotor’s ball-bearing, but other than that, it’s perhaps a touch sober. Fits the brief, though, if you ask me…

What it’s like to wear

It’s well documented what we think of the Chronograph 1. On bracelet that is, since we’ve rarely experienced it on anything else. Now that you also have the option for leather straps, it doesn’t take much away from what was already a historically relevant and downright great-looking watch. It might be a bit too large for some, but a racing chronograph can command a bit of real estate for the sake of legibility, I’d say. It doesn’t feel unbalanced on the wrist, it’s hypoallergenic thanks to the use of titanium and has a micro-adjustable folding clasp for extra comfort.

The big question is, however, how the leather straps compare in the grand scheme of things. The honest answer is pretty good! The leather is very smooth to the touch, smells lovely and is finished with an easy-to-use folding clasp that mimics the look of a pin buckle when closed. They are excellently made and integrate into the case seamlessly thanks to the quick-release system. A pusher on the back pulls in the pin, and you can then take them out without risking scratches or dings in the process.

For now, four colours are available: tan, blue, red or black. And naturally, the folding clasp changes finish accordingly: black on black, and bare titanium on bare titanium. Price-wise, the Chronograph 1 All-Titanium numbered edition, capped to an annual production of 1,000 pieces by the way, retails for EUR 6,450 on the new leather straps. If you want the Chronograph 1 on the bracelet, that jumps to EUR 7,950. The prices for the all-black alternative are EUR 6,950 on any of the leather straps, or EUR 8,950 on the black titanium bracelet.

For more information, please visit Porsche-Design.com.