The Lang & Heyne Friedrich III, Traditional German Watchmaking at its Best

Those acquainted with Lang & Heyne’s collections know the watchmaker to consistently impart a historical narrative, with each series bearing the name of a past Saxony ruler. The design of each timepiece, unmistakably German, is steeped in traditional aesthetics that reflect its inspiration. The model under consideration today draws it from the straightforward thinking of Friedrich III, who, in 1349, assumed control over the regions of Thuringia and Meissen from his father and whose efforts to enhance political influence and wealth included developing public administration systems and internal policies, which in turn prepared the region for future challenges.

Originally introduced over a decade ago, the classically themed and elegant Friedrich III mirrors the ruler’s straightforward approach with its simple, discreet, yet highly functional attributes. Available in various materials, including steel, with numerous dial variations and extensive customization options, the watch we recently had the pleasure to examine is the Friedrich III in 18k rose gold, featuring a silver frosted dial. We know it’s nothing new, but it’s a watch we never covered in the past and deserves some attention.

The Friedrich III embodies all the hallmarks of a perfect modern dress watch. The entirely polished circular 39.2mm rose gold case, measuring 10.5mm thick, showcases Lang & Heyne’s distinctive triple lug design, ensuring that L&H timepieces remain easily identifiable. Adorning the case at 3 o’clock is the gold onion-shaped crown featuring an LH logo and elegantly protected by crown guards.

For those who find the third lug unconventional, it’s worth noting that it is somewhat recessed and shorter, lending it a subtle presence. Moreover, customization options offer the flexibility to opt for a case with a “regular” configuration. Still, the watch wears comfortably; indeed, it is a perfect companion for a dressier occasion.

The Friedrich III features a minimalist, at times sparkling frosted silver dial adorned with elongated Roman numerals for hour markers and a recessed, snailed small seconds display at 6 o’clock. This design reflects an appreciation for simplicity and detail without compromising functionality. Encircling the textured dial is a railway minutes track, with geometric shapes designating 5-minute intervals – rhombuses at 3, 9, and 12 o’clock, while the rest are tiny triangles. The classical dial design accentuates the blued cathedral-style hour and minute hands, meticulously handcrafted to achieve an intricate three-dimensional appearance. Customization options include various shapes, materials and colours for the handset, available upon request.

The slightly convex sapphire case back offers a captivating view of the in-house Calibre VI, operating at 18,000 vibrations/hour with a 55-hour autonomy promise, distinguished by the typical Lang & Heyne trigonal bridge. The main plate, the bridge and the balance cock are made from brass and undergo a specialized brush treatment dating back to the 18th century, resulting in a unique texture before being plated in gold. All gears are meticulously crafted from 14ct solid gold, lending a visually exciting contrast against the background and purportedly reducing friction when in contact with a steel pinion. Adorning the beautifully hand-engraved balance cock, complete with an elegant swan-neck fine adjustment, is a natural diamond that crowns the balance. The snailing on the ratchet wheel is perfect, the bevelling is striking, and the hand-engraved Lang & Heyne Dresden text, along with the timepiece’s model number, add a final touch of sophistication to this exemplary work of Saxon watchmaking.

For the concluding note, I would like to pull up a quote from the 2012 article by our own Robin Nooy: “Lang & Heyne is a watchmaker that seems to despise anything that has to do with fancy-schmancy technology or materials. The company goes to great lengths to avoid any computerized machining or assembly. It relies solely on the qualities of traditional craftsmanship“, and later, Robin adds that the company caters to a connoisseur seeking the very best of what the industry has to offer. So true then, no less solid now. The Lang & Heyne Friedrich III is an impressive timepiece, incredible for the genuine passion that goes into each L&H creation, and one has to see the watch in person to fully appreciate the craftsmanship and its value.

The Lang & Heyne Friedrich III we experienced was paired with an alligator leather strap and closed with a pin buckle; this rose gold case/frosted silver dial configuration will cost you EUR 36,700 (19% tax included) – far from accessible but justified as the watch and its movement are simply delightful. For more details, please visit www.lang-und-heyne.de.