The Irresistible Allure of the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Chronograph

Ever-evolving, Audemars Piguet’s Code 11.59 collection was given a facelift in 2023 with a series of stainless steel models. Respectful of the complex case architecture that has few detractors, the controversy surrounding the somewhat dull dials of the inaugural members was addressed with a new embossed dial pattern and revisited indices, hands and typeface. A few months ago, AP released seven pink gold references with the refreshed dial features. Among these novelties is a model we’ll look at today, the seductive two-tone version of the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Chronograph attired in pink gold and black ceramic.

The Code 11.59 collection was conceived with grandiose ambitions. Destined to write a new chapter in the brand’s history and stand proudly alongside perennial icons like the Royal Oak and its burlier sidekick, the Royal Oak Offshore, its reception in 2019 was lukewarm, to say the least. Despite the complex architecture of the beautifully finished case, most of the criticism was levelled at the lacklustre dials, hands and numerals.

AP listened, and the first attempt to address some of the complaints resulted in two-tone gold cases and gradient lacquered dials. (For a personal take on the hate hype plaguing the early days of the Code 11.59, don’t miss Robin’s Opinion piece) However, things really picked up in 2023 when AP released its first stainless steel Code 11.59 models with a more intricate embossed dial pattern, a new set of indices and hands and a redesigned crown. The signature embossed dial pattern and dial furniture were created in collaboration with Swiss guilloché craftsman Yann von Kaenel.

Espousing the changes introduced on the steel models, AP’s Selfwinding Chronograph reappeared in March 2024 with a contrasting two-tone pink gold case with a black ceramic middle and crown. Not to be confused with the 2021 pink gold and black ceramic chronograph with a gradient dial, the new chronograph reference is, in our opinion, a sharper dresser.

The two-tone pink gold and black ceramic case is designed to highlight the complex architecture of Code 11.59’s hull, with its diameter of 41mm and thickness of 12.6mm. Features like the octagonal case middle, the hexagonal screws in the lugs and the Royal Oak hour and minute hands reference its famous ancestor and provide a sensation of continuity.

While the black ceramic case middle somewhat attenuates its octagonal architecture, it provides a solid contrast to the hollowed gold lug modules welded to the extra-thin polished bezel and the smooth rectangular pushers. Like all Code 11.59s, the ceramic case middle features a wide brushed band with polished bevels matching those on the lugs and bevel. The cambered profile assists ergonomics, ensuring a comfortable fit. The crown, which is also covered in black ceramic, compounds this model’s sleek, sporty attitude (somewhat at odds with the case’s scant 30m water-resistance).

Sticking to the two-tone black and gold palette that enhances legibility and looks devilishly handsome, the dial features the intricate black embossed pattern developed for the brand by Swiss guilloché craftsman Yann von Kaenel. Radiating from the centre and increasing in size, the concentric circles on the dial are engraved by hand, imitating the sensation of ripples on the surface of water. These circles are perforated with tiny holes to catch the light, and then the entire dial is coloured using a galvanic process to enhance the contours produced during the stamping process.

The recently introduced faceted and polished hour markers and the semi-openworked hour and minute hands benefit from the addition of luminescent material, more in tune with the chronograph’s sporty nature. The central seconds hand has retained its circular counterweight, a feature passed down from earlier references that looks antiquated in this context. As is characteristic of the brand, the indices, hands, frames of the sub-dials and applied AP logo are gold.

Aligned horizontally, the two chronograph counters feature a framed pink gold track, snailed interiors and the new typeface featured on the tachymetre scale and small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock. Without entering the eternal debate of whether a date window is necessary, the aperture at 4:30 cuts into the embossed pattern and has a black background.

Powered by AP’s in-house integrated flyback chronograph movement with a column wheel and vertical clutch, the openworked 22k gold rotor of calibre 4401 reveals the mechanical scenery. For an in-depth analysis of this rather handsome finished movement, please consult Frank’s article.

Price

The Code 11.59 Selfwinding Chronograph is fitted with a casual black rubber-coated strap with a textile pattern and a pink gold pin buckle. It retails for EUR 49,900.

For more information and prices in your region, please consult audemarspiguet.com.