Not all images were able to load for printing. Please close the print window and try again. The Revamped Oris Aquis Chronograph
No longer the oversized instrument it once was, but rather a thoughtfully designed sports watch (still quite a large one, though).
It’s been several years since we last saw an update to the Aquis Chronograph, making the recent release anticipated. Oris introduced the previous 500m water-resistant version back in 2018, featuring a 45.5mm case and a 6-9-12 sub-register layout. Since then, the model has remained unchanged except for the 2019 Blue Whale, which was part of the Oris Ocean Trilogy limited-edition set. The latest Aquis Chronograph follows the brand’s approach of subtle yet thoughtful redesigns, as demonstrated earlier this year with the new Aquis Date. This new version comes in a slightly smaller case with an updated dial layout and refined features. It will likely appeal to fans of Oris’s contemporary diving line (as opposed to vintage-inspired Diver Sixty-Five) and sports watch enthusiasts.
The new Oris Aquis Chronograph brings several updates, with the case size being one of the most notable. Now measuring 43.5mm in diameter and 51mm lug-to-lug, the multi-part stainless steel case featuring contrasting finishes is topped with a unidirectional bezel with an easy-to-grip, scaled ceramic insert. While still substantial, with a thickness of around 16.2mm, it’s a clear improvement over the previous version, which had a height of 18.5mm. The sharp-angled lugs, softened lines, proportionate pushers, and crown with a subtle guard give the watch a sleeker, more refined feel, moving it away from its predecessor’s overtly “tool watch” aesthetic – in line with the subtle work done by Oris on the classic time-and-date Aquis.
The domed sapphire crystal protects the dial, and a new addition is the screwed, mineral glass display steel caseback, replacing the solid steel of the earlier model. While the water-resistance has decreased by 200m – it’s now rated at 300m – this won’t likely dissuade most users, as it still exceeds what most will ever need. Though it may still take up space on smaller wrists, the design improvements ensure it does so with greater comfort.
With the new Aquis Chronograph, the first thing that grabs your attention is the stunning gradient blue sunray-brushed dial. The way it shifts from lighter blue to nearly black at the edges gives it real depth and visual intrigue. The refreshed layout is immediately noticeable and far more balanced, with a small seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock, a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, and a 12-hour counter with a date window positioned at 6 o’clock. The recessed sub-dials are a highlight, with their snailed centres and sloping edges creating a smooth transition to the dial.
The black background of the date window works nicely with the rest of the dial, making it easy to read without disrupting the flow of the design. The minutes and seconds track along the dial’s periphery adds a darker touch – almost black – which sets off the white markings for clear visibility. The applied, faceted hour indices stand out, tapering toward the centre and adding to the dial’s dynamic look.
The indices and hands, including the lollipop-style chronograph hand, are treated with Super-LumiNova, ensuring that low-light readability is as good as during the day. The overall feel is distinctly sporty, yet the dial’s layout and finish add a level of refinement. With the dial framed by the robust, well-crafted case, the watch feels like a perfect blend of functionality and style, with a cleaner, more polished aesthetic than before.
The updated Oris Aquis Chronograph is powered by the Oris calibre 771-1, based on the Sellita SW510 (itself a clone of the Valjoux 7750). This movement features automatic winding with the brand’s signature red rotor. It offers an improved power reserve of 62 hours, a notable upgrade from the 48 hours provided by the previous calibre 774 (base Sellita SW500).
The refreshed Aquis Chronograph sports a brushed and polished three-link bracelet, updated with a thinner taper than earlier models. It is secured with Oris’s patented folding clasp and includes a fine adjustment feature for a customized fit. But if you want to swap for a rubber strap, you’ll have to do it with a tool, as Oris didn’t implement a quick-release system here.
Thoughts & Price
The new Oris Aquis Chronograph stands out with its lovely blue dial, offering an enhanced, almost elegant appearance that stays true to the Aquis collection’s distinctive character. Combining robust build quality, comfort, and solid diving specifications, this contemporary update refreshes the appeal of the Aquis series as a whole, reinforcing it with an updated chronograph. The 2024 Aquis Chronograph is a version with a broader appeal, yet still not a small watch by any means – you better try it on before buying. The price is EUR 4,400 or CHF 4,400, and for more information, please visit oris.ch.
