Jump for Joy with the Largely Handmade Dingemans Jumping Hour Watch
Using NOS Tenor Dorly movements, Dingemans' Jumping Hour watch puts some fun on your wrist.
Just a couple of weeks ago, we brought a very interesting Dutch watchmaker to your attention: Fred Dingemans. Through his eponymous brand, dingemans mechanische horloges (Dingemans Mechanical Watches), Fred offers a true slice of artisanal watchmaking, with a lot of work done by one man, by hand. While his three-hander in bronze was already quite something, I feel his Jump Hour watches are where the real proverbial magic happens. Solely using fully refurbished New Old Stock movements by Tenor Dorly, kind of a jump hour specialist back in the day, Fred is able to create watches that are equal part exclusive and fun!
As I explained before, Fred Dingemans works from his atelier behind his home and does as much as he can by himself and by hand. Every single component for the case, lugs and dial is machined in his workshop in Ouderkerk aan den IJssel. From sandblasting and then lacquering a pair of hands, engraving a rotor or a caseback, to machining down a slab of bronze to form a case, it’s all done using vintage machines, including a lathe from the 1940s that even his father used to work on! There’s a choice of a simple three-hander or this Jump Hour model to begin with. There’s also the Fusion Hour model, where the minute tube is adapted to change from a two-disc display with central seconds to just a single disc for the hours and hands for the minutes and seconds. That’s a story for another time, perhaps.
The case for the Jump Hour is similar to the three-hander in bronze, but this time, it’s crafted from stainless steel. Like the bronze one, the fully brushed case has a decidedly industrial appeal without looking too steampunk-esque (which is good!). And I must admit, it’s a refreshingly simple design amidst the vast majority of case designs we see. The whole case, which measures 39.6mm across and 12mm in height, is machined by hand. That means that the same level of attention is poured into each and every case, and therefore each and every watch, by the man himself. You don’t get that with many other brands!
Of course, Fred’s uniquely designed crown makes an appearance on this Jump Hour, too. Inspired by a garden hose connector, of all things, it’s a wonderfully clever and simple thing to use. Just as a little reminder, push down on the spring-loaded locking pin, unscrew the larger crown ring one full rotation, and then wind the movement through the crown or pull it out to set the time. Push the crown back in, re-screw the large crown ring, and the pin automatically locks everything in place again. It might look a touch complex at first, but it does the job well, with a reassuring level of feedback and sturdiness.
The case itself is finished with wire lugs that can be removed through a pair of screws on the back. That does mean swapping straps is possible, but it takes a bit of care and attention not to damage the case in the process. It’s also fitted with a sapphire crystal on both sides, and the whole construction is tested to a water resistance of 30m. And those four little holes that you see on the bezel? Those are for the four screws that are used from the back to keep everything tight and secure.
What makes the d.m.h. Jump Hour, even more compelling is the dial, which, for this one, is lacquered in blue. This partially reveals the movement underneath and gives way to the jumping hour and revolving minute discs. Both are finished in black, with white printed numerals. The one on the left is for the hours and makes a jump after the one on the right has made its full rotation. This is paired with an orange-lacquered central seconds hand and a white date disc with black numerals. Despite not having any pointers or indicators, telling the time is quite easy. The time is indicated where both the hour and minute discs meet the central axis for the seconds hand. The dial can have different configurations for the cutouts, so how much of the date wheel is exposed is entirely up to you!
Now, the story of the movements is just as interesting as the man himself. Rather than contracting some high-end movement manufacturer or engineering a movement by himself, Fred uses vintage Tenor Dorly movements for all of his watches. Sourcing them can be a real challenge, but through sheer luck, Fred has been able to secure a large batch of both three-hander and jump-hour calibres. During one of his tours through Europe, he decided to take a little detour to investigate a lead on a watchmaking facility about to close its doors. And when he got there, an opportunity arose to buy a whole bunch of movements in relatively good nick!
The movement itself is a Tenor Dorly 1376 series automatic, which runs at a frequency of 21,600vph. When wound, either by hand or through the central rotor, it has a maximum running time of 48 hours. It’s installed through the front of the case and fixed in place by the crown stem and the dial. The industrial level of finishing is very befitting of the overall watch, although there’s the odd touch of colour with a blued screw or brass wheels here and there. The rotor is engraved with Fred Dingemans’s signature to remind you of its maker. Of course, all movements are fully refurbished, tested and regulated before they are installed in a watch to ensure it runs properly for its new owner.
The Jump Hour watch is fitted to a leather or rubber strap and has a base price of EUR 2,795. It can also be ordered with a bronze case, but that affects the price a little. Each watch that leaves the d.m.h. atelier is unique by the way, designed and finished in close contact with the client. The lead time for a watch is a little over a year at the moment, as the watches are made to order, one by one. The wait is well worth it, however, as it’s a watch unlike any other. Plus, you’re dealing directly with the watchmaker himself, which is an extremely rare but satisfying element when purchasing a watch!
For more information and to order your bespoke watch by Fred Dingemans, please visit DingemansMechanischeHorloges.nl.