The Unexpectedly Funky Breguet Classique Phase de Lune 7787 with Black Grand Feu Enamel Dial

Dress watches are typically slim, elegant, and minimalistic, designed to complement formal attire seamlessly. While their refined details and artistry are anything but boring, they are seldom described as playful. Now, the platinum Breguet Classique 7787 with its black Grand Feu enamel dial—a piece that is, say, different. Alongside its classic beauty, it exudes a surprising sense of fun and playfulness, even in a perfect black-tie-ready design. Perhaps it’s a reflection of the mood when first encountering this timepiece. Yet, revisiting this version of Classique 7787 on a different day doesn’t diminish its somewhat lighthearted charm. Take a closer look—does it make you smile?

Our rendition of the Breguet Classique 7787 in platinum (reference 7787PT/2N/9VU) marks the third instalment in this elegant series, introduced earlier this year alongside the Classique 5177. It follows the white and rose gold variants, both of which debuted with white enamel dials. These, in turn, succeeded the original 39mm models with silvered guilloché dials in rose and white gold, unveiled in 2011 (see below).

The 7787 series showcases the quintessential Breguet Classique design. The case measures 39mm in diameter and 10.3mm thick, featuring a thin bezel and straight soldered lugs with a slight curve. While the lug design may prioritize aesthetics over ergonomics, it reinforces the hallmark of the Classique collection’s style. Key features of the polished platinum case include the signature fluted middle section, a sapphire crystal on both the front and back, a fluted crown, and the lugs using screw pins to secure the strap. It is water-resistant to 30 meters and incorporates a recessed corrector-pusher opposite the crown for moon phase adjustment.

The dial is where the charm and playfulness come to life. Its layout – like a few other notable Breguet models – draws loose inspiration from Breguet’s famous No. 5 pocket watch, a masterpiece of asymmetrical yet perfectly balanced design created around 1793. According to Breguet’s archives, the No. 5 was sold to Count Journiac Saint-Méard in 1794—a time steeped in both turmoil and transformation. This was the era of the French First Republic, the Revolutionary Wars, and the Reign of Terror when the guillotine was used all too frequently. Yet, it was also when the Louvre opened its doors as a public art museum. Mentioning these events serves as an invitation to search stories of how great watchmakers of the period – Ferdinand Berthoud, Pierre Jaquet-Droz, Jean-Antoine Lépine, and especially Abraham-Louis Breguet – navigated the challenges of revolutionary times. A brief exploration is well worth your time—trust me. But I digress.

Take a closer look at the minute track encircling the dial—a playful detail full of character. Three distinct types of markers define the track: rhomboids at 15, 30, 45, and 60 minutes; quirky symbols resembling pictograms or retro-infantile video game icons at other 5-minute intervals; and tiny six-pointed stars for the remaining minutes. This eclectic mix injects a sense of fun, wonderfully undercutting the “gravity” of the platinum case.

Next are the silver-powdered Breguet numerals. Yes, they’re undeniably classic, but to me, they carry whimsical energy—like they’re just waiting for the right tune to launch into a groovy dance, courtesy of some Disney-esque magic. Then there’s the power reserve indicator with its arrows pointing away from the arched scale—a curious detail that feels delightful fun. And you have to love the long needle-shaped hand that points out how many hours you have left before the watch needs your winding attention.

Adding to the charm are the Breguet rhodium-plated hands with round open tips and the moon phase display finished with a hammered white gold moon on a blue lacquered disc surrounded by white gold stars. This spectacle, set against the deep black enamel dial, evokes a mysterious allure as if the entire show unfolds in the pitch of the night. It’s a composition as captivating as it is imaginative, and it only happens with this black Grand Feu enamel version, while the white dial does not really “perform” the same way.

Powering this and other 39mm Breguet Classique 7787 Moonphase variants since the introduction of the series is an automatic in-house movement, calibre 591 DRL with a central rotor in precious metal embellished with a guilloché pattern. The transparent caseback also reveals movement decorations such as Geneva stripes, golden engravings and polished bevels on the bridges. Calibre 591 DRL uses silicon escapement and hairspring, operates at 28,800 vibrations/hour and has a power reserve of 38 hours.

Our Breguet Classique 7787 Moonphase, or Phase de Lune in French, is worn on a black alligator leather strap, closed with a platinum triple-folding clasp with Breguet’s “B” emblem, and the price is CHF 43,800. For more, please visit Breguet.com and notice what clothes the brand suggests you pair this model with. Spoiler – There’s no tuxedo in the images, but there’s denim. Funky!