The New H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon

Introduced just four years ago, H. Moser & Cie‘s luxury Streamliner sports watch debuted with a flyback chronograph and swiftly expanded its complications repertoire to include perpetual calendars, tourbillons and skeletonised models. The latest Streamliner ascends the complications ladder with the combination of a sophisticated minute repeater and flying tourbillon. While Moser’s resilient Streamliner case provides a safe environment for these complications, the brand’s Concept aesthetics – no logo, indices or inscriptions – dictate the minimalist appeal of the Grand Feu enamel dial. Bereft of distractions, the action of the hammers and tourbillon animate the dial while the chimes ring out the time on demand.

The new Streamliner Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon is a sequel, in a sense, to the Streamliner Pandemonium. Fusing MB&F’s large, suspended balance wheel (and panda DJ) with Moser’s exposed repeater mechanism, the unique piece for Only Watch was the first to host two complications in the Streamliner family. However, the idea of marrying a minute repeater to a tourbillon is not new to Moser and in 2019, the brand released a 43mm white gold Endeavour Concept model with an inky black lacquered dial.

Taking the same duet of complications but swapping the more classical packaging of the Endeavour for the sporty stainless steel spirit of the Streamliner results in a more versatile and resilient watch that can take a splash thanks to its 50m water-resistance.

Integrating the movement within the sleek contours of the Streamliner and exposing the complications on top of the dial presented its own set of challenges. For one, the case middle had to be widened to accommodate the movement and create a soundbox to optimise and amplify the chiming of the hours, quarters and minutes. The gongs, placed on a single level and curved to avoid interfering with the flying tourbillon, add a groovy Op Art touch that works well with the 1970s helmet-shaped case of the Streamliner.

Revealing the complications on the dial, the mirror-polished hammers in the upper left quadrant strike the gongs of the minute repeater while the one-minute flying tourbillon performs its elegant rotations in the aperture at 6 o’clock. As a Moser Concept watch, there is nothing superfluous on the dial to distract you from the spectacle, but in the name of legibility, the hands feature Globolight inserts.

The watch has a lovely Grand Feu enamel dial in Aqua Blue with a hammered texture similar to the smaller Endeavour Concept models. In keeping with the brand’s signature fumé dials, the enamel has a fumé or gradient effect with a lighter central area gradually intensifying to a darker, more saturated section on the periphery. Four tones of blue are applied to the gold hammered base to achieve this effect. Each pigment is applied individually so that the colours oxidise and fuse in the kiln. The dial has to be fired twelve times to produce the beautiful translucency associated with Grand Feu enamel. Crafted by hand and subject to the unpredictable nature of working with enamel, each dial is unique.

The cushion-shaped case and integrated bracelet conform to the fluid, aerodynamic design of the Streamliner family. The stainless steel case measures 42.3mm across and is 14.4 mm thick, including the domed sapphire crystal (12.2mm without). Decorated with vertical, satin-brushed finishes, the slightly recessed case middle is sandwiched between two polished bevels.

Powered by the in-house, manual-winding calibre HMC 905, the hand-finished and decorated movement is visible on the caseback. The bridges have a contemporary anthracite finish and signature Moser double stripes, and certain parts are skeletonised. Beating at a frequency of 21,600vph, the movement delivers an ample power reserve of 90 hours.

The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon is limited to 50 pieces and retails for CHF 269,000 (incl. tax). For more information, please consult h-moser.com.