Monochrome Watches
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The New H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy

A striking combination of colours for Moser's robust tourbillon watch.

| By Brice Goulard | 3 min read |

A watch that combines robustness and fine watchmaking – something we even put to the test in the wild, believe it or not – the H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer has been seen in a variety of editions since its introduction. Bright colours, appealing skeletonized haute horlogerie movements, and even a funky retrograde seconds display recently; there’s something for every taste. The latest edition of this all-rounder watch combines a robust yet compact case with a redefined tourbillon movement housed in a bold combination of materials and colours. Meet the new Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy.

First seen in a sizeable 42.8mm case, the Pioneer Tourbillon was a watch to be worn despite featuring a delicate anti-gravity regulator. With its 120m water-resistance, well-protected case and screw-in crown, it’s a fine horology watch that can be taken off the beaten track. Recently, the brand – probably listening to the demand for smaller watches – presented a more compact edition of the Pioneer Tourbillon, next to a centre seconds model, housed in a pleasantly wearable 40mm case without compromising its resilience.

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The latest addition to the collection builds upon this recent release, with some changes outside and inside. First, the case, which is 40mm in diameter, 12mm in thickness (incl. the crystals), and still equipped with a screw-in crown to ensure its 120m water-resistance, is made of bold 5N red gold. It retains the classic design of the collection, with mostly brushed surfaces, some polished accents and recessed areas in the casebands with a striated pattern.

The other aesthetic evolution concerns the dial, which adopts a striking burgundy colour. Being a watch from H. Moser & Cie. it, of course, has a gradient/fumé effect (darker on the periphery) and a sunray-brushed pattern. A tradition for most watches from the brand, the logo is barely visible and is executed in transparent lacquer. Applied indices and hands are done in matching red gold, with luminescent accents on the hour markers and hands. The dial is dominated by the aperture at 6 o’clock, revealing the tourbillon.

Speaking of which, this Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is regulated by a one-minute flying tourbillon equipped with a double hairspring. Produced by sister company Precision Engineering, this pair of matched hairsprings significantly improves accuracy and isochronism while also reducing the effect of friction commonly experienced with a single hairspring. Finally, thanks to its unique design, the tourbillon is an interchangeable module, assembled and regulated independently from the movement via a simple Plug & Play system which allows for easy servicing.

The movement itself is a well-known base of the brand, yet revisited with new decoration. While technically identical to the calibre HMC 804 found in previous editions of the Pioneer Tourbillon, the HMC 805 adopts the same design and finishes as the recent calibre HMC 201 (found in the latest Pioneer and Streamliner models). This means openworked bridges revealing more of the technical parts, a modern anthracite grey finish with Moser double stripes and a skeletonized 18k gold rotor. The movement beats at 3Hz and stores up to 3 days of energy.

Worn on a khaki rubber strap (alligator leather or textile straps also available separately), the new H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is released as part of the permanent collection and retails for CHF 59,900 (incl. taxes). For more details, please visit h-moser.com.

https://monochrome-watches.com/h-moser-cie-pioneer-tourbillon-burgundy-2025-introducing-price/

3 responses

  1. the rubber strap not fitting the chase of a 60.000€ watch seems kinda funny to me but ok…

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  2. Moser makes some beautiful watches, but I like the design of their Streamliner line more. Also, a tourbillon is so “early 2000” when it was a de rigour novelty. Get rid of it and you can price this watch at 20k. Funny but their early double-spring (which they eventually discontinued due cost-cutting) was simpler and superior to a tourbillon…

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