The new Grand Seiko Elegance GMT SBGM255 Snowdrop and SBGM257 Moondrop

Even without going back to the roots of the brand, when it was founded in 1960, there are more than one emblematic model within the current Grand Seiko catalogue. You can, of course, think about the Snowflake, the SBGW231 and SBGW301 and, one that is all the more important to me, the GMT Elegance SBGM221. I have loved this watch for years, and even named it the best Grand Seiko money can buy. Now, the classic GMT from the Elegance Collection welcomes two new, dressier, shaper and more textured variations, with the new GMT SBGM255 Snowdrop and SBGM257 Moondrop.

The classic GMT Elegance SBGM221 was released in 2010 and has not changed ever since its introduction. It has become one of the most timeless designs of the brand, thanks to its elegant proportions, its refined and soft case design (not that common within the brand’s portfolio) and its superbly elegant ivory dial and discreet tempered blue GMT hand. Even 15 years after it was released, the Elegance GMT SBGM221 remains one of the most cherished models of GS. Maybe I’m not entirely objective, I own this watch and I love it.

Now, while preserving the original design, proportions, elegance and functions of the SBGM221, Grand Seiko presents two new variations, with slightly more striking designs, a slightly more modern flair, but still a mechanical heart and the same refined expression of Japanese culture and sense of beauty. As such, these new Elegance GMT SBGM255 Snowdrop and SBGM257 Moondrop retain everything good and not-so-good about the SBGM221. No one is perfect, and perfection is charmless anyway…

Both watches start with the same case – identical to the SBGM221 – measuring 39.5mm in diameter. It’s made of stainless steel with a fully polished finish. This case is, as the name of the watches indicates, a more elegant expression of Grand Seiko’s grammar of design. You won’t find the classic wide and angular shoulders of a 44GS model, for instance. Instead, the GMT Snowdrop and Moondrop rely on Zaratsu polishing with a more parsimonious and discreet approach, for example, on the lightly angled polished bezel, or the discreet scalloped bevel on the side of the lugs. The case flanks are also rounded, and the lugs are curved.

This softer feel continues on the top of these watches, with a box-shaped sapphire crystal that recalls vintage acrylic crystals. The SBGM255 and SBGM257 are also fairly short on the wrist, with a lug-to-lug measured at 46.9mm. What hasn’t changed compared to the SBGM221 is the thickness, which has always been the weak spot of this design. These are indeed 14mm in height, and while I never had to complain about it, I can imagine that some would expect a bit more thinness. The shape of the case, with a domed crystal and caseback, tends to minimise this sensation, though. The other issue with the classic ivory model or these new editions is the limited water-resistance, rated at 30 metres.

What’s new here mostly has to do with the dials. In classic Grand Seiko fashion, the GMT Snowdrop and Moondrop have textured dials, depicting a contemporary geometrical spiral pattern, only interrupted by the slightly recessed 24-hour scale. The SBGM255 Snowdrop adopts a classic winter-inspired theme, with a crisp white dial and blue accents – tempered blue GMT hand and blue 24h scale. On this model, the highly detailed hands and applied markers are bevelled and polished, bringing black reflections that contrast with the white background.

The SBGM257 Moondrop opts for a deeper approach, more autumnal – said to be inspired by the season when “moonlight illuminates the night sky with its soft glow.” It thus features a deep navy blue colour, accented by gold details on the GMT hand and 24h scale. Here, the applied markers and hands are still bevelled but have a brushed top surface to bring more contrast with the dark background. On both editions, the legibility is great, and a date window, with its own metallic frame, sits at 3 o’clock.

Under the sapphire caseback is a tried-and-tested movement, the in-house Calibre 9S66 – a movement that’s part of the previous generation of calibres at GS. This automatic movement runs at 4Hz and stores a comfortable 3-day power reserve, with a rated accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds per day. Importantly, it is a true GMT movement (a.k.a traveller’s GMT), where you can independently set the local hour hand by one-hour increments, via the crown, making it ideal for changing time zones, without stopping the minutes or seconds hand.

Worn on a black or blue crocodile leather strap, closed by a three-fold clasp with push-button release, the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT SBGM255 Snowdrop and SBGM257 Moondrop are both released as part of the permanent collection and will be available in December 2025. These are priced at EUR 5,200, the same price as the ivory-toned SBGM221. And while we’re talking about serious money, it remains fairly reasonable for true GMT watches of this quality, with an impressive level of detail, great casual elegance and storied movement. And that’s even more relevant in today’s market…

For more details, please visit www.grand-seiko.com.