Accessible & Handsome, The New Frederique Constant Classics Premiere Salmon Dial

Sometimes, it doesn’t take much to do a great watch. It doesn’t necessarily take great complications, high-end materials, overly-engineered movements or complex shapes. A classic and elegant watch doesn’t need all of that. What it needs is a far more subtle recipe, which requires well-curated ingredients. Take this new, Europe-only edition of the Frederique Constant Classics Premiere, a new version that is based on an otherwise pleasant but discreet watch. Add to it a new salmon dial with Breguet numerals, offer it at a reasonable price, and you’ll end up with one of the best accessible dress watches I’ve seen this year. See, sometimes it’s not that complicated…

If we look at the “standard” versions of the Frederique Constant Classics Premiere, there’s not much to complain about. These are fairly compact, elegant watches with a classic design. But these might be a bit too… old-fashioned. The use of Roman numerals and a stamped cross-weave pattern in the centre of the dial is surely playing on the nostalgic vibe, but it might not be the most modern or appealing watch for a younger audience – and that younger audience knows that dress watches are back in fashion, and wants something elegantly original. And in all fairness, even old watch snobs like me want that too.

So, using the already solid base of the Classics Premiere, the team of Frederique Constant Europe decided to spice up things with a new dial – and by new, I mean completely different from the classic range – a new colour and a new strap. 3 elements that, in the end, drastically change the watch and make it greatly appealing. Simple recipe, great results… More striking but equally elegant – with a bit of that old-money vibe that is resurging recently – and using codes that are usually the apanage of much higher-end models, with a typical Genevian style (FC is, after all, headquartered in the same neighbourhood as Patek and Vacheron).

Let’s start with the case, which hasn’t changed compared to the standard versions of the Classics Premiere. In typical Frederique Constant fashion, it’s fairly simple, not overly present and does a good job of bringing a very decent sense of quality. What matters primarily, besides the use of fully polished surfaces (a bit of satin-brushed areas would be appreciated), are the dimensions. 38.5mm in diameter, just north of 10mm in height and a length of 43.5mm. Those are very appealing proportions, compact enough for a modern dress watch vibe, but also modern to avoid the micro-watch effect of some vintage models. The case has gentle curves all around, including a convex sapphire crystal flowing with the thin bezel and it’s all very comfortable and discreetly refined.

But now there’s this dial, which changes the Classics Premiere from a rather strict dress watch into a casually elegant model. It’s no secret that we are here, at MONOCHROME, great fans of steel watches with salmon dials, and this new model drew our attention (I first saw it on the phone of an FC representative and immediately asked for a loaner…) Through the use of a stepped profile (with a recessed central section), two different finishes (circular brushed for the chapter ring, grained for the midsection), classic retro-styled railroad tracks and that lovely salmon colour (which is a rose gold coating), FC has made a watch with great character.

Add to that nicely carved, applied polished Breguet numerals and a set of polished hands, and you have one of the most appealing dials the brand has done recently. I could have lived without the automatic mention at 6 o’clock and maybe leaf-shaped hands would have been better, but these are minor complaints. It’s lovely, warm, characterful and truly elevates this otherwise accessible watch to a different league. It doesn’t have the finesse of a Laurent Ferrier or a Calatrava, but in a meeting room or at a restaurant, from a certain distance, I bet you won’t see the difference and this watch truly does the trick.

Inside the case, under a see-through caseback secured by 4 screws, is a new-gen movement with extended power reserve, the Calibre FC-301, based on the La Joux-Perret G100 – a movement maker owned by Citizen, and thus a sister company of FC. The movement is powerful, precise enough and looks the works. It’s just a bit noisy when the rotor gets into action.

Nicely complementing the warmth and depth of the dial, the Classics Premiere Salmon EU-Exclusive is worn on a brown nubuck calf leather with crocodile pattern embossing and off-white stitching. I know, embossed straps aren’t the best but in this price range, it’s nothing dramatic in my opinion. And then again, just like the dial, it adds a layer of casualness to this watch without diminishing its overall elegance.

Priced at EUR 1,995 and available from Europe-based retailers and the brand’s website, this new Frederique Constant Classics Premiere Salmon dial left me with a great impression. It’s handsome, extremely pleasant to wear and has undeniable charm for a reasonable price. As said, sometimes, it’s not that difficult… For more details, please visit frederiqueconstant.com.