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The New Ferdinand Berthoud Mesure du Temps 1787 Chronometre FB 2TV

The first chapter of a new collection for Berthoud: a Flying Tourbillon.

calendarCreated with Sketch. | ic_dehaze_black_24pxCreated with Sketch. By Xavier Markl | ic_query_builder_black_24pxCreated with Sketch. 4 min read |

The trajectory of the Ferdinand Berthoud brand has been quite remarkable since its revival in 2015 by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele of Chopard and his teams. Its inaugural model won the prestigious Aiguille d’Or at GPHG, followed by numerous other awards. Beyond industry recognition, collectors widely praise the brand’s fascinating designs and uncompromising craftsmanship, culminating in last year’s impressive Naissance d’une Montre 3 project. After these inaugural ten years, it is time to open a new chapter with an unprecedented collection, Mesure du Temps 1787, and the Chronomètre FB 2TV Flying Tourbillon (or tourbillon volant in French). The name of this new collection is derived from the title of a reference work published by Ferdinand Berthoud in 1787, “De la Mesure du Temps ou supplément au Traité des horloges marines et à l’Essai sur l’horlogerie […]” (On the Measurement of Time or Supplement to the Treatise on Marine Clocks and the Essay on Horology).

The look of the new Chronomètre FB 2TV flying Tourbillon is unmistakably familiar as its movement is directly inspired by the Chronomètre FB 1’s calibre FB-T.FC of 2015. Indeed, it incorporates a fusee-and-chain mechanism and a tourbillon, two signature Berthoud mechanisms that have, however, been entirely reengineered and enhanced with two additional sophistications. Importantly, these are staged dial side rather than at the back of the watch, like the Naissance d’une Montre 3. The display is truly spectacular with a 3D architecture comprising no fewer than 1,240 components – including 777 elements for the chain alone – and requiring nearly 300 hours of manual finishing.

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At 35,60mm in diameter, the hand-wound calibre FB-TV.FC retains the pillar architecture of its predecessor. Unlike the tourbillon of the FB.1, which was rotating under a bridge, the Chronomètre FB 2TV is regulated by a flying tourbillon. With a spectacular 15mm diameter, its cage features three arms alternating between flat and sloping sections. It runs at 21,600 vibrations/hour, and its variable inertia balance has four 18-carat gold fine-adjustment screws and a spring with Phillips terminal curve.

In line with the brand’s constant focus on chronometry, the movement includes a stop balance wheel and a second hand reset – two rare but meaningful functions in the context of a tourbillon – to set the time with to-the-second accuracy. Pulling the crown to time-setting mode stops the movement. A pusher coaxial to the crown allows you to reset the second hand. Better yet, the second reset can be used as the movement is running in “fly-back” mode, thus potentially allowing for short-time interval measurements too (up to 60 seconds). The function is made possible by a specially shaped cam, visible at the back of the watch in the centre of the movement, along with the lever that resets it.

The fusée-and-chain was also entirely redeveloped with a different orientation and geometry. It is fitted with a double superimposed Maltese cross-type stopwork system and two stopwork fingers to limit its operating range, to keep the movement within a range where energy delivery remains as constant as possible – enhancing rate stability and overall accuracy. A differential mechanism ensures that the movement continues ticking even during winding. The flying barrel has also been redesigned. Its drum no longer has grooves around its circumference, thereby limiting friction when the chain is wound or unwound

Now also located on the dial side, the cone driving the power reserve indication has also been redesigned. Moving up and down. It drives a mobile arm tipped with a ruby that acts as a sensor to transmit the movement’s power-reserve level to a hand. Altogether, these enhancements allow for providing more stable torque. The power reserve has been increased from 53 to 60 hours. Winding is also faster, with approximately 6.25 turns of the crown max. Last but not least, as you would expect from the brand, the finish of this hand-sanded natural nickel silver movement is exceptional throughout. Quite simply, it is a true feast for the eyes.

This superb new movement is presented in a 44mm x 15,46mm round case. Fashioned from ethical 18k white gold, its shape is clearly derived from the 2020 Remontoir d’Egalité FB 2RE. It features two box sapphire crystals, one at the front and one at the back. The sapphire portholes of the FB 2RE are no longer present. The off-centred hours and minutes dial has a white varnished dial base and an engraved black varnished minutes track. The 25.80mm-long, ultra-thin central seconds hand allows the time to be read on the white lacquered inner bezel ring.

The watch is offered on a hand-stitched alligator leather strap, available in various sizes and colours on request, with a white gold double-blade safety folding clasp, adjustable length. While not a limited edition, the Ferdinand Berthoud Mesure du Temps 1787 Chronomètre FB 2TV is expected to be produced at only 10 to 12 timepieces per year due to its complexity and the workshop’s capacity. Price is set at EUR 383,000, including taxes.

More information at ferdinandberthoud.ch.  

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