The Captivating Beauty of the De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon

Denis Flageollet, master watchmaker and the “mad genius” behind De Bethune’s creations, is passionate about the “great patrimony of classical watchmaking” and resolved to contribute calibres “worthy of the 21^st century” (32 calibres to date). While many associate De Bethune with sleek futuristic vessels, Flageollet’s attention to classical finishings and pursuit of chronometric excellence reflect his reverence for Enlightenment horologists. The DB28 watch, launched in 2010, was De Bethune’s first contemporary “baby”. Like contemporary musicians who have to master classical music to compose, Flageollet’s classical training set him on course for De Bethune’s astonishing trajectory. Released at the end of 2024, we wanted to take a closer look at one of the most beautiful models: the DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon.

The DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon marks the latest stage in the evolution of De Bethune’s iconic flagship DB28. Metamorphosing over the years, the DB28 opened its heart with the Steel Wheels model in 2018. This was followed by the extra-thin DB28XP (extra-plat) released in 2020, one reference equipped with a tourbillon. Fusing elements from all the abovementioned models, the gorgeous DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon was released in October 2024.

Everything about this watch reflects Flageollet’s philosophy, from the patented mechanical innovations of the movement to the radical openworked design and from the exquisite finishings to the lithe, light titanium case. Titanium, as any De Bethune fan knows, is a cult metal for Flageollet, who accidentally discovered that by heating the metal, titanium, like steel and iron, could also be blued. Now a signature De Bethune colour, thermally oxidised titanium is used on everything from the case to the dial and balance wheel.

Gleaming with its mirror-polished contours, the lightweight 43mm grade 5 titanium case features the iconic, patented floating lugs and crown at noon of this family. In line with its XP denomination, the case has a thickness of 9.1mm. The sleek, streamlined case has an engraved microlight case middle reminiscent of speed lines (microlight engraving is a technique developed by DB as an updated interpretation of guilloché that accentuates the shape and produces light and shadows for additional depth). The case has a monobloc construction and is slightly broader in the middle and thins out at noon and 6 o’clock. The coherence of the design can be appreciated in details like the buckle that echoes the openworked shape of the lugs.

De Bethune’s signature colour, blue, and favourite metal, titanium, are key players on the dial. The titanium chapter ring features polished circular hour markers set into a blued microlight engraving. The same blued microlight pattern can be admired on the openworked delta-shaped barrel bridge and the inserts on top of the two mainspring barrels with their exposed ratchet wheels and micro-bevelled teeth.

Mirror or black polishing is another in-house speciality, and the titanium dial base, the smaller triangular bridge, the openworked hands and the bevels of the large barrel bridge are so perfectly executed that at certain angles, they appear black. The incredible reflections bouncing off the polished surfaces are achieved by hand using diamond paste on a boxwood grinding wheel.

Touted as the lightest tourbillon escapement on the market, with a weight of just 0.18 grams, the 30-second titanium tourbillon with its silicon escape wheel whirls before your eyes in the aperture on the dial at 6 o’clock. Flageollet’s blued titanium balance wheel with white gold weights is secured by an openworked and mirror-polished bridge connecting to the base of the delta-shaped bridge in the centre.

The watch is powered by the hand-wound calibre DB2009V6, a derivation of the DB2009V5 with fewer parts (275 vs. 380). Fitted with many of De Bethune’s patented innovations, the self-regulating twin barrels ensure an impressive 5-day power reserve. A power reserve indicator on the reverse gauges the fuel supply. With its incredibly light, fluid and gleaming case, slim profile and multi-layered, openworked dial, it’s the kind of watch you can almost imagine levitating from your wrist and taking flight.

As a limited edition of just ten pieces, I am pretty sure that the DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon is already airborne and winging its way to the wrists of ten lucky owners who have parted with USD 210,000 for the privilege. More information at debethune.ch.