Cleguer Horology Launches with the Inspiration One Souscription and a new “Innate” Escapement Geometry

Discovering new independent watchmaking talents is a rare pleasure – especially when it’s as compelling as the debut of Mathieu Cleguer’s brand. With his first creation, this watchmaking engineer introduces a singular vision where aesthetic purity meets technicality. At first glance, the Inspiration One captivates with its clean, balanced design elevated by superb finishing and references to tradition. Yet beneath this apparent discretion lies a far greater depth of complexity, reaching to the very essence of watchmaking. Indeed, the Inspiration One is regulated by its own “Innate” escapement, a new geometry inspired by the Fasoldt and natural escapements.

Cleguer Horology, a new indie brand from an EXPERIENCED watchmaker

Mathieu Cleguer is a new independent watchmaker finally stepping into the spotlight with the launch of his own watch brand. His journey is anything but conventional. Originally, he was deeply passionate about cars and pursued his studies with the intention of building a career in the automotive industry. However, a visit to the Paris Motor Show marked a turning point in his life. With the complication watches at the Jaeger-LeCoultre booth, he discovered a world that immediately fascinated him. What began as curiosity quickly turned into an obsession, leading him to reconsider his path entirely.

Driven by his newfound passion, he began immersing himself in the world of horology. After spending a year in England, he decided to take things further by seeking an introductory internship in watchmaking. He reached out to several brands, but the only response he received came from Denis Flageollet. This led to a short but decisive experience at De Bethune, where he fully confirmed his passion for the craft.

He then pursued a three-year Bachelor’s degree in micromechanics, specialising in watchmaking, in Neuchâtel. Upon graduating, he began his professional career at Breva, joining the technical office – though the company went bankrupt just a few months later. He then continued his journey at Akrivia, where he contributed to the development of new models and movements. These formative experiences convinced him that his true ambition was independence, to create his own projects rather than remain an employee. He therefore set out as an independent constructor. After a few years, he chose to join Emile Chouriet. While the products there were more classical and industrial, this period allowed him to gain valuable discipline and a deeper understanding of structured watchmaking production. A few years later, upon learning that his wife was expecting their first child, he saw it as the right moment to return to his original ambition: full independence. This decision ultimately led him to create and launch timepieces under his own name – bringing us today to the discovery of the remarkable first watch of newly-founded indie brand Cleguer Horology.

The Cleguer Inspiration One Souscription

With the first watch released under his eponymous brand, the Inspiration One Soucription, Mathieu Cleguer impresses with the intrinsic quality of his inaugural piece – both in its design and its technical substance, which we will explore later.

A relatively classical timepiece in its overall look and indications, it is presented in a 38.5mm titanium case. The aesthetic draws on traditional watchmaking codes, while also aligning with the contemporary language of independent horology. The movement is exposed on the dial side, revealing a strikingly three-dimensional architecture, offering depth and visual complexity that immediately captures attention. From the elegant, ultra-thin sweeping second hand down to the main plate, the eye travels through the off-centred enamel dial, oversized balance wheel, and two gracefully rounded bridges, highlighting the watch’s intricate, multi-level construction and depth.

At first look, the front of the watch seems unbranded, the only exception being behind the three-dot logo in the Grand Feu enamel dial that looks like a Celtic rune, which isn’t a surprise, knowing that Mathieu originally comes from French Britanny. On close inspection, though, the name Cleguer is discreetly engraved on the inner flange. The finishing is superb, most notably with the two meticulously polished steel bercé bridges. A refined touch, the balance bridge is deliberately offset from its axis, allowing the stud holder to be concealed.

The Innate escapement

The Cleguer Horology Inspiration One is regulated by a large, 12,9mm balance wheel fitted with 4 regulating weights and a hairspring with a Phillips terminal curve and an inner Grossmann curve. Its oscillations are controlled by the innate escapement, a proprietary escapement developed by Mathieu Cleguer. Inspired by the natural and the Fasoldt escapements (which inspired the coaxial escapement), its dual escape wheels can be discovered through two cut-outs under the balance wheel.

Like the natural escapement, it is a dual impulse motion fitted with two escape wheels. Yet, it was modified to resolve one of the main drawbacks of traditional natural escapements, which is not self-starting, by drawing on principles from the Fasoldt escapement. In effect, it “combines the dual escape wheels of the natural escapement but with a tangential impulse delivered through the escapement lever. Therefore, the impulse to the balance wheel is not direct, as in a natural escapement. Instead, it is indirect and tangential, following the principle of Charles Fasoldt’s solution. The theoretical advantage over the Swiss lever escapement, which is used in the vast majority of watches, is the absence of sliding friction – eliminating critical lubrication issues as well as energy loss, efficiency reduction, and wear associated with it.”

Building on the natural escapement architecture, Mathieu Cleguer relocated two impulse stones from the roller to the central lever. Each escape wheel operates alternately with a pair of pallets on the central lever: one pallet locks the escape wheel, while the other receives the impulse, which is then transmitted traditionally to the roller jewel via the pallet fork.

The natural escapement 

In his quest to improve chronometry, Breguet’s idea was to create an escapement incorporating two escape wheels. The escapement is said to be ‘natural’ because the impulses are transmitted as directly as possible from the escapement wheels to the balance wheel. Operating in alternation and giving two impulses per oscillation, these escapement wheels do not need lubrication. Among the main drawbacks are the inertia and lower efficiency resulting from the additional wheels. Plus, it is not self-starting.

This fascinating development has inspired many modern watchmakers: George Daniels, Derek Pratt, Laurent Ferrier, Kari Voutilainen, François Paul Journe, Charles Frodsham, Ulysse Nardin with its dual impulse escapement, Bernhard Lederer…

The sapphire back reveals the handsome movement of the Cleguer Horology Inspiration One. The barrel is fitted with a Maltese cross on the ratchet. The power reserve is limited to 36 hours (from 55 hours in total) by this stopwork, which restricts the mainspring’s output to its optimal torque range for more consistent timekeeping. The click produces a distinctive, almost joyful sound when winding the watch. The gear train is visible down to the two wheels connecting the twin escape wheels. The mainplate and bridges are crafted from German silver and finished with a combination of champagne and rhodium platings. Like the front of the watch, the movement is superbly decorated with numerous sharp internal angles, polished bevels and frosted surfaces.

Availability & Price

The inaugural Cleguer Horology Inspiration One Souscription in titanium is limited to 12 pieces, all pre-sold, with deliveries scheduled for the second half of the year. The price of the subscription campaign was CHF 56,000, and the sale scheme allowed Mathieu to fund his development. New versions will be presented with a total of 80 watches. The next batches will be 4 editions of 12 pieces in precious metals with a retail price of CHF 95,300.

For more details, please visit www.cleguer.com.