Not all images were able to load for printing. Please close the print window and try again. Chopard Celebrates the 50th Anniversary of its 1976 Icon with the Happy Diamonds Heritage
Happy hours ahead with re-editions of Chopard’s famous watch with free-floating diamonds.
A true child of its time, Chopard’s 1976 Happy Diamonds watch captured the spirit of the decade, a period marked by rebellion against rigid traditions, the rise of disco culture and a shift towards ready-to-wear luxury. Breaking away from traditional static diamond settings, Chopard’s Happy Diamonds were liberated from metal claws and allowed to spin freely across the dial. Marking its 50th anniversary, Chopard revisits one of its most enduring creative signatures with the release of the Happy Diamonds Heritage. Faithful to the aesthetics of the original 1970s Happy Diamonds, the re-editions come in two case sizes with black onyx dials as a background for Chopard’s original concept of free-floating diamonds.
The Backstory
Although the Happy Diamonds name is now associated with Chopard’s line of women’s jewellery and watches, the initial cushion-shaped white gold watch of 1976, with 30 floating diamonds, was originally envisioned as a one-off men’s watch and submitted as a candidate to the annual Golden Rose of Baden-Baden jewellery competition (and won). Chopard designer Ronald Kurowski was captivated by the brilliance of sunlight dancing on a spray produced by a waterfall in the Black Forest.
Determined to recreate this dynamic on a watch, the diamonds were unleashed with no settings and allowed to dance across the dial. However, given diamonds’ innate hardness, they would scratch the surface and, with the slightest wrist movement, flip over.
The solution was to encapsulate each stone in a tiny gold sheath. Moreover, the curved and bevelled base allowed them to twirl and pirouette across the dial freely without damaging components. Placed between two transparent layers of sapphire crystal, the diamonds were staged against a dramatic black onyx dial.
To give the diamonds enough space to move freely around the dial, the watch was fitted with a tiny 13.7mm ETA 2442 automatic movement. Displayed at the 1977 Basel Trade Fair, the brand was unprepared for the deluge of orders it generated. Suffice it to say, the watch and its smaller ladies’ counterpart were a huge commercial success. The name of the watch is attributed to Karin Scheufele, Karl Scheufele III’s wife, who purportedly exclaimed, “diamonds are happier when they are free”.
The Return
As mentioned, the two Happy Diamonds Heritage models are pitched as “re-editions of historical models”. Faithful to the stylised geometry of the 1976 precursor, the 18k yellow gold case (ethical, of course) has a smooth, cushion-shaped profile with rounded edges. The larger 34 x 34mm mechanical model has a slim case height of 8.53mm and is polished throughout. The yellow gold crown is set with onyx that matches the dial material. Compared with the 1970s editions, the new case is fluid, with a slimmer bezel, shorter, more ergonomic lugs and a larger, easier-to-grip fluted crown to wind the movement and set the time.
The velvety black onyx dial pays tribute to the original and provides a dramatic tuxedo-style backdrop to the 21 Happy Diamonds (1.05 carats) suspended between the two sapphire crystals. A golden circular frame delineates the onyx centre, where gilded dauphine hands indicate time. A sapphire crystal porthole on the caseback displays parts of Chopard’s 10.01-C manual-winding movement. Introduced in 2024, the in-house calibre is one of the smallest and thinnest of its kind, measuring 15.7mm across and 2.9 mm thick; it beats at 21,600vph and offers a 45-hour power reserve.
The Happy Diamonds Heritage 34mm is paired with an elegant black alligator strap and an 18k yellow gold pin buckle. Chopard’s Happy Diamonds Heritage is a happy way to celebrate a 50th anniversary and recreates the shape and liberated, playful mood of the 1970s. With its dynamic floating diamonds set against a high-contrast black onyx background, the 34mm edition will doubtless appeal to men and women alike.
For the record, there is also a 24 x 24mm counterpart with 9 Happy Diamonds powered by a quartz movement, priced at EUR 22,800. Both references join Chopard’s Happy Diamonds watch collection. The hand-wound 34mm edition is priced at EUR 46,000. More information at chopard.com.
