The Bovet Récital 21 Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Becomes Sleeker with Sapphire Dials

Bovet’s watchmaking universe is characterised by incredibly complex timepieces staged with dramatic flair and decorated to unparalleled standards. Founded in 1822, Pascal Raffy breathed new life into Bovet to create a highly niche connoisseur brand. While classical complications and centuries-old decorative techniques abound, Bovet is no stranger to the potential of sapphire crystals and luminescence to reveal the magic inside. The latest model is not a newcomer but a revisited version of the Récital 21 Retrograde Perpetual Calendar. Almost unrecognisable, the new sapphire crystal dials of the Récital 21 inject modernity, wearability and a sense of intrigue.

The first hurdle when reviewing a Bovet timepiece is to understand its provenance since the numbers tagged onto the name are not sequential. The model we are reviewing is the Récital 21 and, as such, belongs to the varied range of timepieces of the Récital family. From the award-winning Récital 28 Prowess 1, capable of solving the daylight time savings conundrum on world timers, to the sporty Récital 12 with a steel bracelet, all Récital models – 15 Jumping Hour, 20 Astérium, 27 Turquoise, 23, 26 Brainstorm, 29, 22 Grand Récital – belong to the Dimier collection with a cabochon-set crown at 3 o’clock. You can watch our video for a unique insider’s view of Bovet’s integrated manufacture with a focus on the Récital models and a tour of the manufacture here.

Placing the earlier Récital 21 Retrograde Perpetual Calendar next to this latest edition speaks volumes about this model’s profound personality change. While the mechanical front, with its perpetual calendar and retrograde date function, remains untouched, plenty of novelties distinguish the new Récital 21. For starters, the signature sloping Dimier case (“writing desk”) is now made from grade 5 titanium. Measuring 44mm across, the thickness of the case varies; at noon, the case has a height of 15.4mm, while at 6 o’clock, it slims down to 10.25mm. Polished throughout, the titanium case has four screwed lugs and a knurled crown set with a natural green cabochon-cut sapphire. Naturally, titanium translates into resilience and an insuperable sensation of lightness on the wrist.

The main novelty, though, is the sapphire crystal dial revealing parts of the movement. Our photographs are of the green sapphire crystal, but the watch is also available with blue and brown crystals. The day of the week, leap year indication and month apertures have not changed position and are located at noon, 3 and 6 o’clock, respectively. Apart from these cut-out apertures, everything else has changed.

The retrograde date function has been reshaped and now arcs from 8 to 4 o’clock. Using white numerals, a small, luminous-tipped arrow-shaped hand emerges from beneath the central hands to indicate the day in tow. To add visual impact, Bovet’s watchmakers have developed a mechanism that slows down the date hand during its retrograde jump, which is best appreciated when the last day of the month is about to change to the first.

Another radical change to the Récital 21 Retrograde Perpetual Calendar is the removal of the central hours and minutes plate. Instead, the dial features newly designed, more contemporary, openworked luminescent hour and minute hands. The central hands are also longer, pointing to a peripheral minutes track with luminescent arrow-shaped indices and circular minute markers.

Last but not least, the small seconds counter at 9 o’clock has been eliminated, making for a much cleaner, sober, contemporary and easier-to-consult dial. Without forgetting the somewhat mysterious sensation that the slightly smoked green sapphire crystal produces as it reveals details of the movement. Underscoring its more contemporary personality, the abundant touches of Super-LumiNova light up the time, the date, the calendar functions and even the discs bearing the months, days of the week and leap year indications.

There are, of course, correctors to adjust the day, date, day of the week and month functions. However, in the name of user-friendliness, you can adjust the watch with just one corrector. By pressing the corrector until the correct date is shown, all the other functions of the perpetual calendar are synchronised (day of the week, month and leap year).

Turning the watch over reveals the patented double coaxial seconds mechanism and the power reserve indicator over five days. The new Récital 21 is powered by Bovet’s calibre 13DM05-QPR calibre, a manual-winding movement with 464 components, 37 jewels, a 3Hz frequency and a 5-day power reserve. As you would expect, the hand finishings are superb.

Availability & Price

The Bovet Récital 21 Retrograde Perpetual Calendar is limited to 60 pieces in each sapphire crystal colour and comes on a shiny green, blue or brown alligator strap with a polished ardillon buckle. It retails for CHF 92,000 (excl. tax). More information at Bovet.com.