The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatic, now Available in Compact 38mm Cases

One of the earliest dive watches, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms has long been one of the most emblematic models available on the market. In 2007, the classic Fifty Fathoms Automatique (ref. 5015) arrived with its large (even oversized) 45mm case and calibre 1315 – two fundamental elements of the permanent collection. And this size has been the way to go for some years. But in 2024, as the brand was celebrating the model’s 70th anniversary, something great arrived in the collection: the Fifty Fathoms 42mm Collection in titanium, gold and later in steel. And while you thought that was the end, Blancpain now adds a third size to the collection, giving the FF a versatile silhouette to fit most wrists, women or men. Let’s dive into the specifics of the brand new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatic 38mm. 

Since the re-launch of the model in 2007, the story of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms has been pretty clear. Not including complications, such as the chronograph/calendar, the tourbillon or the Big Date, the classic version, meaning the time-and-date automatic dive watch, of the Fifty Fathoms has mostly been available in a large 45mm case with its signature domed sapphire bezel insert. This model, known as the reference 5015, was the backbone of the collection, which later included more compact limited-edition watches such as the Tribute to Fifty Fathoms No Rad or the Barakuda Re-Edition, both in a 40mm case. Last year, the brand pleasantly surprised us with the release of the 42mm collection, already an interesting move for collectors, in line with current trends for more compact watches. Not content with two sizes in the collection, Blancpain now adds a third and smaller one, making the Fifty Fathoms Automatique now available in 45mm (ref. 5015), 42mm (ref. 5010) and 38mm (ref. 5007).

What is this release all about? Well, pretty much a size-only story. While drastically reduced compared to the original 45mm versions, the new Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm is unmistakably part of the family and retains everything that has made the collection recognisable. Straight from launch, the FF 38mm is available in three different materials, two different colours and a whole range of straps and bracelets. This means that you can opt for stainless steel with a polished finish, grade 23 titanium with a brushed finish or 18k red gold with a brushed finish. Dimensions: 38mm in diameter, 12mm in thickness (quite decent, to be honest) and about 45mm in length. These smaller measurements are now paired with a 19mm lug width to keep the balance right.

As for the specs and the diving credentials, while the case has been reduced, the classic features have been maintained. Despite being smaller, the Fifty Fathoms 38mm remains a true dive watch with a uni-directional bezel –  equipped, of course, with the signature domed sapphire insert, in black or blue – a screw-down crown with lateral guards, a screwed back and a solid water-resistance of 300 metres. On the wrist, it wears like a charm and is suitable for both men and women. Note, however, that the bracelet and straps are relatively short and made with smaller wrists in mind. Something to try out in real life if you’re interested in acquiring one.

As said, several editions are available. The polished steel model is paired with a sunray-brushed black dial and bezel, with white gold hands and applied markers. The brushed titanium model has a dark blue dial and bezel complemented by white gold elements. Lastly, the 18k red gold edition is paired with the same sunray-brushed blue dial and blue sapphire bezel, but this time, the hands and markers are crafted from red gold, adding a warm and luxurious feel. As for the looks, it’s as classic as can be, with the same layout as the 42mm and 45mm editions – meaning triangular hour markers, Arabic numerals are cardinal points, glaive-shaped hands (all largely filled with SLN) and, to my regret, the date still placed at 4:30, but with a tone-on-tone disc. Size aside, the 38mm editions are identical to the 42mm models.

Inside the case is the Blancpain calibre 1150 (a Frédéric Piguet base). This automatic movement is equipped with two barrels offering a comfortable 100-hour power reserve and runs at a frequency of 3Hz. It also benefits from a silicon balance spring for superior anti-magnetic performance. Visible through the sapphire back, it is nicely decorated with sunray-brushed bridges, bevelled edges and a solid gold rotor treated in dark grey NAC coating, for a technical look.

As for securing the watch to the wrist, Blancpain offers you a ton of options. The steel and titanium models are available on a 3-link bracelet with a concealed folding clasp. The titanium version is brushed, while the steel model has alternating brushed and polished links. On all models, including the red gold editions, you’ll also have the choice of three colour-matched straps: tropic-like rubber, textile NATO and sailcloth canvas straps (in black or blue). The rubber and canvas straps can be ordered with either a pin or a deployant buckle.

Part of the permanent collection, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm joins the 42mm and 45mm models to now complete the range with more versatility than ever. The prices are from CHF 15,000 to CHF 17,700 for the grade 23 titanium edition, from CHF 14,000 to CHF 16,300 in steel and from CHF 25,600 and CHF 28,500 for the gold models – depending on the choice of strap, bracelet and buckle.

For more details, please visit www.blancpain.com.