5 Cool Watches By Indie Watchmakers Launched Next to the SIHH
There was the SIHH... and there was some more around it!
As SIHH 2018 excitement has settled down, it is time for us to look at some of the watches presented in Geneva (understand, not at the SIHH) that week, in particular, some we have not covered yet – or only with press pictures. LVMH brands exposed on a boat on the Geneva Lake or hotels, while several independent watchmakers showcased their latest creations in different locations across the city. Last but not least, the WPHH (World Presentation of Haute Horlogerie) was the opportunity for Frank Muller, Cvstos, Backes & Strauss and other affiliated brands to present their novelties at their Watchland site in Genthod.
We take a look at 5 notable watches unveiled by Frank Muller Group and several independent watchmakers, outside the thick carpets of the SIHH 2018.
Frank Muller Vanguard Worldtimer GMT
At WPHH, Frank Muller unveiled a rather impressive list of new watches, in particular complications. Among these was the Vanguard Worldtimer GMT, presented in two-tone (pink gold/titanium) or in pink gold. Despite its gargantuan dimensions (53.7mm x 44mm), this timepiece wears surprising well on the wrist thanks to its curved tonneau-shaped case. The world-time city disc is actuated via the single crown while the pusher allows adjusting the additional GMT center hand by one-hour increments. The center dial stages a world map subtly worked to create relief, highlighting each continent.
Quick facts: 53mm x 44 mm titanium / pink gold case – 30m water resistance – automatic movement with hours, minutes, seconds, GMT and world-time indication. Alligator/rubber strap with folding buckle – CHF24,700. www.franckmuller.com.
Manufacture Royale Androgyne Tourbillon Violine
Part of the ‘Royal Bespoke’ series presented in Geneva, Manufacture Royale has unveiled a distinctive pink gold version of its Androgyne Tourbillon whose bridges and plate are coated with purple CVD. The alligator strap comes in assorted color and is secured with a pin buckle. The technical part of the watch is known, as presented here.
Quick facts: 43mm pink gold case – 30m water resistance – caliber MR02 manual movement with hours, minutes, tourbillon. Alligator leather strap with pin buckle – unique piece – CHF69,000. www.manufacture-royale.com.
Singer Reimagined Track 1 Geneva Edition
Singer Reimagined unveiled the second version of their revolutionary stopwatch with the chronograph hours, minutes and seconds coaxially mounted in the center of the watch. The time of the day is indicated on two peripheral rotating discs. The handsome Singer Reimagined Track 1 Geneva edition is presented in contrasting black and yellow gold (with an unusual light shade of gold, close to a 1N alloy). The design cues clearly hark from the 1970s but feel modern at the same time.
Quick facts: 43mm 18K yellow gold (1N) case – 100m water resistance – automatic movement with hours, minutes and central chronograph. Calfskin leather strap with gold folding buckle – CHF72,000. www.singerreimagined.com.
De Bethune DB28 Steel wheels
The De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels is a new take on the model that was awarded the prestigious Aiguille d’Or at GPHG 2011. It provides stunning views on its mesmerizing open-worked mechanics. This 25-piece limited edition exposes its balance wheel under a superbly polished bridge and a spherical moon phase indication. The polished grade 5 titanium case features the brand’s distinctive articulated lugs ensuring superb wearing comfort.
Quick facts: 42.6mm polished titanium case – 30m water resistance – Caliber DB2115V4 manual movement with hours, minutes, spherical moon phase and power reserve indication on the back. Alligator strap with pin buckle – CHF83,000. www.debethune.ch.
Louis Moinet Dhofar
Louis Moinet has unveiled a new version of their mesmerizing double tourbillon powering a kaleidoscopic dial animation. The two large flying tourbillons rotate in opposite direction and appear to be floating above the dial. The dial has been cut from a fragment of a lunar meteorite called “Dhofar 457”, found in Oman, on the border with Yemen. Its movement, the manual caliber LM52 is housed in a richly engraved white gold case. And if you prefer pink gold, a second limited edition features the same movement and Acasta, the oldest rock on in the world as a dial backdrop.
Quick facts: 47.4mm white gold case – 30m water resistance – caliber LM52 manual movement with hours, minutes, double tourbillon, automaton dial at 12. Alligator leather strap with folding buckle – limited edition of 3 pieces – CHF320,000. www.louismoinet.com.
The LOUIS MOINET DHOFAR has meteorite fragments from Oman, not Yemen. Oman is where the coveted Rolex, Patek and AP watches with khanjar logos were originally requisitioned.