The 2026 Minerva Collection, now a Stand-Alone Brand, Unveiling the new Crownless

Since its acquisition by the Richemont Group in 2006, historic and highly revered brand Minerva has lived under the control of Montblanc, its watches bearing double-signed dials. 20 years later, under the direction of Laurent Lecamp, Global Managing Director for both Montblanc and Minerva, the venerable hidden gem of haute horology emancipates again and now becomes a stand-alone brand, despite still having close relationships with MB. And consequently, Minerva introduces several new models, including what we all expect from the brand – high-end chronographs, including a new compact one – but also a whole new watch, the Unveiled Crownless. 

Minerva The Unveiled Crownless

The first and main new model for Minerva as a stand-alone brand is an entirely new concept, inspired by the brand’s past. In 1927, Minerva developed one of the first military watches to include bezel-activated functionality using an indicator. Building on this heritage, and after introducing a bezel-activated chronograph through the Minerva Unveiled Timekeeper in 2023, Minerva now unveils its first crownless timepiece, The Unveiled Crownless, where the bezel becomes responsible for both the manual winding and time-setting functions of the watch.

Housed in a 41.5mm case made of steel, the Minerva Unveiled Crownless is a bold watch, in continuity with the 1858 Geosphere Annual Calendar and recent chronographs with fluted bezel. Made of 18k rose gold, the bezel needs to be unlocked by a lever on the back, which switches the bezel’s function between winding the movement (lever in) and time-setting (lever extended). The crownless look is surprising at first, but visually balanced and comfortable on the wrist, despite the watch being quite large and tall (12mm).

The dial of the Minerva The Unveiled Crownless is classic 1950s, with opaline and guilloche textures, a warm ivory colour and a small second counter at 6 o’clock. Large dauphine-shaped hands and applied markers complete the display, with the watch worn on a green alligator strap. Inside the case is the calibre M15.08, a time-only, hand-wound movement, which relies on the same base as the 1858 Geosphere Annual Calendar, drawing inspiration from the historic Minerva “Pythagore” calibre 48. Produced in-house in Minerva Villeret’s manufacture, it is made of rhodium-plated German silver, decorated with polished bevel edges and Geneva stripes. The free-sprung balance wheel and in-house hairspring beat at a slow 2.5Hz rate, and the movement stores 80 hours of power reserve.

Quick facts: 41mm x 12mm steel case with bidirectional rotatable fluted bezel in 18k rose gold, crownless architecture – sapphire crystals – 30m water-resistant – guilloche and opaline dial with applied markers – calibre M15.08, Minerva in-house, hand-wound, 19 jewels, 18,000vph, 80h power reserve – Dark green alligator leather strap, steel triple-folding clasp with fine adjustment system – ref. 137544 – EUR 39,000

Minerva The Unveiled Secret Limited Edition 39mm

Next, contrary to most of the previous models, which were on the large (or very large) side of things, Minerva here launches the Unveiled Secret Chronograph in a new, smaller 39mm size and a striking wine-red colourway. The compact but rather tall case (14.18mm) is here made of stainless steel with a fixed, fluted rose gold bezel and crown. As with previous inverted chronographs by Minerva, the caseback is solid with dedicated engravings.

The view through the dial is, however, spectacular as the entire old-school chronograph movement can be discovered, with its traditional architecture, including a horizontal clutch and column-wheel, as well as the regulating organ. Also new for this 2026 limited edition, besides the smaller case, is the deep wine-red colour of the openworked structure, with applied luminous markers in rose gold. The strap also opts for this bold colour.

Inside the case is the Calibre M13.26, an inverted movement (the first flipped movement was a 43mm version in 2022) and a reduced reversed monopusher chronograph released here for the first time. Crafted largely from rhodium-plated German silver, it is as classic a chronograph can be and includes the Minerva arrow at the 1 o’clock position, Minerva’s signature V-shaped chronograph bridge at 4 o’clock, and the handsomely finished balance clock supporting the freesprung balance wheel with in-house hairspring at 6 o’clock. This manually wound movement offers 60 hours of power reserve.

Quick facts: 39mm x 14.18mm steel case with fixed fluted bezel in 18k rose gold, monopusher architecture within the crown – sapphire crystals – 30m water-resistant – Skeleton wine-coloured dial, rose gold-coated indexes – Calibre M13.26, Minerva in-house, hand-wound, 25 jewels, 18,000vph, 60h power reserve – Wine-coloured alligator leather strap, steel triple-folding clasp with fine adjustment system – ref. 136354, limited to 58 pieces – EUR 58,000

Minerva The Unveiled Chronograph Limited Edition 30

First introduced in 2023, Minerva The Unveiled Chronograph is all about bringing the movement to the front of the watch. Following several editions, such as the 2023 distressed stainless steel model, the 2024 steel and blue edition or last year’s steel-and-gold model, it now comes back as a Minerva-only watch in 18k yellow gold. Essentially the same 43mm watch as before, it now evolves as a more luxurious edition with brown-coloured contrasting elements for the movement’s mainplate and bridges.

The sapphire openworked layout and reversed construction of the movement allows to disover it entirely, revealing the signature V-shaped bridge up top and all chronograph parts. Inside is the same monopusher Calibre M17.26, composed of 291 individual parts, with its pillar-based architecture visible through five apertures in the mid-case. Hand-finished and superbly-constructed, this movement beats at 2.5Hz and stores 50 hours of power reserve. The watch is worn on a brown alligator strap and is limited to 30 pieces.

Quick facts: 43mm x 14.78mm yellow gold case with fixed fluted bezel, monopusher architecture within the crown – sapphire crystals – 30m water-resistant – Skeleton sapphire dial with brown-coloured movement parts – Calibre M17.26, Minerva in-house, hand-wound, 26 jewels, 18,000vph, 60h power reserve – brown sfumato alligator leather strap, gold triple-folding clasp with fine adjustment system – ref. 136352, limited to 30 pieces – EUR 84,000

More details at www.montblanc.com.