Nomos Goes Gold, With Precious Editions of the Tangente Neomatik and Ludwig

When you think about Nomos, besides the cool designs and youthful take on classic German watchmaking from Glashütte, you often picture a nice, relatively attainable watch in stainless steel. There are, of course, several higher-end models in the collection, such as the Lux and Lambda, and sometimes more luxurious special editions in gold, as recently seen with the Tangente Roségold with Lange Dial. Today, the German brand breaks its conventions by introducing more luxurious editions of two emblematic models in precious metal. Yet, these Tangente Gold Neomatik and Ludwig Gold are still very much Nomos, even in terms of value for the money. 

The Tangente Gold Neomatik

Seeing the icon of Nomos, the all-time classic Tangente, in a gold case feels somehow… natural. Indeed, with its restrained Bauhaus-inspired design, its compact proportions, its subtly original dial and its almost absence of bezel, the Tangente has always felt to me like a proper dress watch. So, being now made in precious metal only reinforces this feeling.

What we’re looking at here is a trio of Tangente Gold Neomatik models, which are nothing different, material aside, from other models from the range, such as this Tangente Doré edition here (a steel model with gold hands). All three versions of the Tangente Gold are housed in the same 35mm diameter case, with a thickness of only 6.9mm, quite a solid number for a self-winding watch. The chosen material here is 3N yellow gold, but the cases retain everything classic for a Tangente: angled lugs, cylindrical profile, polished finish, sapphire crystals on both sides and a decent 50m water-resistance.

Three references are presented (we could only photograph two of them), with the classic Tangente spirit and layout. Two, which you can see here, rely on galvanised silver-plated dials, with the option of either blued steel hands or gold hands. One is soft and subtle, the other has more character and contrast. The third version has a dark grey, ruthenium-plated dial that feels warm and dense. All printings are done in gold colour, and the hands are also in gold.

Inside the case is the calibre DUW 3001, also known as Neomatik, a thin automatic movement with in-house escapement (Swing system), a 3Hz frequency and a 43-hour power reserve. It is, as always with Nomos, it is pleasantly decorated with thin stripes and perlage. These watches are worn on a Shell Cordovan strap, in brown or black, depending on the chosen version, and will be part of the permanent collection for EUR 9,800. It is above average for Nomos, but still reasonable for a solid gold watch.

Quick specs: 35mm x 6.9mm case in 18k gold 3N, polished, sapphire crystals, 50m water-resistant – galvanised silver-plated dial with gold or blued hands, galvanised ruthenium-plated dial with gold hands – Calibre DUW 3001 Neomatik, automatic, 3Hz, Swing system, 43h power reserve, hours, minutes, small seconds – Shell Cordovan strap in brown or black – Reference 161 (silver dial, blued hands), 162 (silver dial, gold hands), 163 (ruthenium dial) – permanent collection, now available – EUR 9,800 

The Ludwig Gold

The second model to receive the gold treatment is the Ludwig, a slightly more discreet take on the original concept of Nomos. The Ludwig feels at first like a variation of the Tangente, but look closely and you’ll see notable differences. The Ludwig is softer, with a more rounded, slender case with a barrel profile, straight lugs and a domed sapphire crystal. Once again, the move to a gold case feels natural and reinforces the natural elegance of this collection.

Here, Nomos chose to render the classic hand-wound version into a gold sub-collection, with a 35mm diameter and only 6.3mm in thickness. But remember that the lugs are long and the wrist presence is stronger than you think. Two versions are released, both with a silver-plated dial and the choice between gold or blued steel hands. One of the main differences with the Tangente is a dial using Roman numerals and a railroad minute track, creating a more serious look.

Inside the case is the Calibre DUW 4001, an evolution of the Calibre Alpha (itself based on a Peseux 7001), now equipped with the brand’s in-house Swing system and an elongated power reserve of 53 hours. The Ludwig Gold models are worn on a Shell Cordovan strap in brown or black, and retail for EUR 8,700. These are available as part of the permanent collection, with the option of a solid gold or a sapphire caseback.

Quick specs: 35mm x 6.3mm case in 18k gold 3N, polished, sapphire crystal, solid gold or sapphire caseback, 30m water-resistant – galvanised silver-plated dial with gold or blued hands – Calibre DUW 4001 (evolution of the Alpha), hand-wound, 3Hz, 53h power reserve, Swing system, hours, minutes, small seconds – Shell Cordovan strap in brown or black – Reference 211 (blued hands) and 212 (gold hands) – EUR 8,700

For more details, please visit nomos-glashuette.com.