A new Rose Gold Version of the Longines Master Chronograph Moonphase

It’s easy to almost exclusively think about Longines’ Heritage or Spirit models, for them to be visually attractive, vintage-inspired models with a lot of arguments for a seasoned crowd. Recent watches, such as the Ultra-Chron Classic, the Spirit Pilot Flyback or the Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve, have somehow stolen the show. There’s (much) more to Longines than these watches, though, and a fairly large portion of Longines’ customers shows interest in far more classic ranges, such as the Master Collection. This range of elegant, timeless models, often equipped with interesting complications, has just welcomed a new flagship member, a gold chronograph packed with indications and with serious mechanics under the hood. 

The Longines Master Collection was launched in 2005 and, despite not often making headlines in watch magazines and rarely being seen on the wrist of seasoned enthusiasts (that’s the role of the Heritage range…), it is one of the brand’s top-selling ranges and shouldn’t be overlooked. As Rebecca said in this article, the Master is “a collection of elegant classics with various complications ranging in complexity. Unlike the extremely popular Heritage Collection that references specific vintage models and revisits them with an earnest respect for the past, the Master Collection references traditional watchmaking codes with casual, elegant good looks. After all, not everybody wants a retro remake or a vintage-inspired watch. For many buyers, a simple classic watch for daily wear from a reputable watchmaker with a small complication and an affordable price tag is just what the watch doctor ordered.”

Well, for 2025 (meaning for the collection’s 20th anniversary, even though the brand doesn’t talk about that), the watch doctor just wrote a new prescription, this time with the strongest treatment found in the watch pharmacy. And a price tag that, well, mostly focuses on doctors’ bank accounts too. Meet the Longines Master Chronograph Moonphase Rose Gold, the full-fledged version with a luxurious case material. Indeed, this new member of the collection is packed with complications and relies on solid watchmaking credentials.

As for the case, this new edition opts for 18k rose gold all around, with an entirely polished finish. As said, as classic as it can be. It’s not a compact watch, though, measuring 42mm in diameter and close to 50mm in length. I would have preferred Longines to go for the 40mm case. There are sapphire crystals on both sides, and it’s rated at 30m for water-resistance. On the wrist, it’s a watch that is large but remains classic and discreet, despite the use of gold. Also, at 14.40mm in thickness, it is not as thick as some other automatic chronographs from the brand – even though I wouldn’t call it thin either.

The dial of this complete calendar chronograph, in a timeless silvery-white colour with embossed barleycorn pattern, is all about packing complications. And while it’s not delivering the best legibility, having so many hands, sub-dials, and functions has its own charm. It really feels like a highly complex watch. You’ll find the hours and minutes on the central axle, but also the moon-shaped date hand pointing at a track on the periphery of the dial, and the chronograph’s seconds. All are made in blued steel, adding retro charm. Then, the sub-dials. At 12 o’clock, you’ll find the 30-minute counter and two windows for the calendar (day and month). At 9 o’clock is the small seconds and a 24h indicator (a day-night function, not a traveller’s complication). And finally, at 6 o’clock, you’ll find the chronograph’s 12-hour counter and a moonphase display.

This Longines Master Chronograph Moonphase is not only about the looks, but also about strong mechanics. Inside is a movement made by ETA exclusively for Longines. The Calibre L687.5 is a deep evolution of the Valjoux 7750 base. This automatic chronograph indeed relies on a column-wheel instead of the cam system, it features a free-sprung balance wheel and silicon balance spring, and the power reserve has been beefed up to 66 hours. It is finished with a blued column wheel, perlage and a striped rotor coated in gold.

Worn on an alligator strap, this rose gold Longines Master Chronograph Moonphase is a serious watch altogether. With a serious price too, at EUR 25,800. The same watch in stainless steel retails for EUR 4,150, which is quite a solid premium for the gold case. For more details, please visit www.longines.com.