The Return of Gérald Genta with the new Gentissima Oursin

Mr Gérald Genta needs no introduction anymore. One of the most famous watch designers of our time, responsible for the creation of icons such as the Royal Oak or the Nautilus, he also created watches under his own name. From 1969 on, Genta produced exceptionally complex watches (incl. an automatic tourbillon grande sonnerie, often considered one of the craziest watches of the 1990s) as well as truly unique, often disruptive designs. Under the Bulgari-LVMH umbrella since 2000, the brand and name weren’t used to their full potential. However, we’re not here to talk about the past… but about the future, as we are now able to introduce the first GG creation after LFT’s takeover, the new (and certainly far from consensus-driven) Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin capsule collection.

Already back in the 1980s and 1990s, GG’s creations were nothing short of spectacular, polarizing or disruptive. Sometimes acclaimed, applauded and copied, sometimes misunderstood or rejected… Genta’s own designs have never been mild. They always created emotions in both directions, and they’ve never left anyone indifferent. The words ‘generic’ and ‘unanimous’ have never been in his dictionary. And these new creations will certainly provoke equally strong reactions. Undeniably, in the vein of Gerald Genta’s creations, using his unique design language, these watches are not designed for traditional tastes.

The return of Gérald Genta as a stand-alone brand under the umbrella of Louis Vuitton La Fabrique du Temps materializes with a collection of three bold, distinctive, creative and emotional watches. The origins of this design, according to the brand, can be found in a 1994 GG creation named the Oursin (or sea urchin – self-explanatory, I guess). Inspired byinspired by this seabed animal, it originally featured a case with convex sides studded with beads – and, according to the brand, was Evelyne Genta’s favourite creation of her husband.

Using this idea as a base, Gérald Genta (the LVMH-owned brand) now swings back into action with a trio of new creations, the Gentissima Oursin. Extravagant, complex, polarizing… Typical Genta, some would say, with a distinct artistic feel. The case of all three watches is a curved, convex grade 5 titanium base with bead-blasted surfaces. It’s a compact, unisex watch – Genta’s watches have often been rather small. It plays with contrasts in colour and texture but also with geometry in classic GG fashion. The case is topped by a faceted sapphire crystal with eight planes forming an octagon in the centre (Genta’s signature shape).

On all three versions, the case is studded with 223 beads, set in a radially expanding series of halos. Each of the decorative beads is individually threaded and screwed down and comes in a contrasting material to the underlying titanium – white gold, rose gold and diamonds, or yellow gold. What will be the feeling of wearing the watches – specifically those yellow gold spikes? I’m curious.

As said, three different expressions of this Gentissima Oursin design are released. First is an almost monochromatic take, with the matte titanium base decorated with polished white gold beads. Perhaps the most adaptable (or least provocative), it’s paired with a dark grey dial with an 8-side guilloché pattern and silver-toned hands. The second model, with a more feminine appeal, features a guilloché dial in pink mother-of-pearl. The case features rose gold beads and diamonds. Finally, the most audacious of the trio, with a punk vibe, comes with spike-shaped beads in yellow gold over a black DLC-coated titanium base and a sleeker flat dial with yellow gold spike hour markers.

Inside the relatively thin 9.5mm case is a well-known movement. Based on the Zenith Elite, which was also created in 1994, this calibre GG-005 is a reliable and thin automatic engine for the hours and minutes. It beats at a 4Hz frequency and delivers a 50h power reserve. It has been customised for the Oursin, with the octagonal-shaped rotor and bas-relief beads sculpted along the periphery of the mass.

All models are worn on a leather strap matching the colour of the dial, with a 17.5mm lug width attached from a single central connector.

This inaugural Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin collection will be produced for a limited time, and “further varietals of the Gentissima Oursin are to be expected down the line.” Available from October 2024, the prices will range from CHF 19,000 to CHF 29,000. For more details, please visit www.geraldgenta.com.