Monochrome Watches
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The New EU-Exclusive Grand Seiko SBGW321 Nishikigoi and SBGY040 Chisen Teien

Two new European exclusive creations, inspired by Japanese pond gardens

| By Brice Goulard | 4 min read |

Japanese nature and culture have long been a deep source of inspiration for Grand Seiko, which has managed to merge serious watchmaking credentials with a unique sense of style, infused with references to its country of origin. For most of its watches, this connection with Japan takes shape on the dials, which are known to be some of the most detailed in the business. For its latest releases, a pair of limited editions exclusive to the European market, Grand Seiko once again brings traditional Japanese cues and superb dials. Meet the Japanese garden-inspired Grand Seiko SBGW321 Nishikigoi and SBGY040 Chisen Teien. 

Both of these new releases, which will only be available from Grand Seiko Boutiques and selected retailers in Europe, the Japanese luxury watchmaker once again dives into classic, rather poetical Nippon themes. “At the heart of Grand Seiko’s craftsmanship is the unique Japanese philosophy of cherishing subtle changes in nature which unfold with each passing moment.” Here, Japanese gardens and their famous ponds are at the heart of the inspiration. “Nishikigoi”, or iridescent carp fish, which inspires the first of these European exclusive creations (SBGW321), is a key natural feature in the requisite pond of a “Chisen Teien”, itself the source of inspiration for the second limited edition (SBGY040).

Grand Seiko 44GS Nishikigoi SBGW321

The first of these two EU-exclusive models, and the most accessible of the two – whether in price and production numbers – is based on a classic design of the brand, the 44GS, here executed in an appealing mid-size version measuring 36.5mm in diameter. As such, it shares its specifications with other desirable versions such as the Pink Sakura SBGW289, the Heritage SBGW291 & SBGW293 or another EU-only version, the Green SBGW303. We thus have here the sharp, faceted 44GS case with large shoulders and box-shaped sapphire crystal, in compact, elegant proportions.

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What matters most in this new Nishikigoi SBGW321 is the new dial, and its bold colour. Known as swimming jewels, Nishikigoi or iridescent carps are cherished all over Japan and worldwide and the new colour scheme represents a Japanese Koi fish, combining a black strap, a vivid red dial in a silver-coloured stainless steel case with gold-toned accents of the logo and second hand. The dial is adorned with a fine radial spiral pattern, extending outwards from the centre and evoking the shimmering scales of a carp. Whether you want to talk about the inspiration or not, the result is certainly refined.

At the heart of this handsome and compact model is the brand’s classic hand-wound movement, the calibre 9S64, found in multiple dress watches. Operating at a 4Hz frequency, it boasts a generous 3-day power reserve and serious accuracy, but is here hidden under a solid steel back. A limited edition of 300 pieces, the Grand Seiko SBGW321 will be available from November 1st at selected retail partners, exclusively in Europe, and priced at EUR 6,100.

Quick facts: 36.5mm x 11.6mm – stainless steel case, box-shaped sapphire crystal, solid steel back, 100m water-resistant – radial spiral dial pattern, red colour, applied markers, golden accents – hand-wound calibre 9S64, in-house, 28,800vph, 72h power reserve, +5/-3 seconds per day – black crocodile leather strap, pin buckle – Limited edition of 300 pieces – ref. SBGW321 – EUR 6,100

Grand Seiko Elegance Chisen Teien SBGY040

The second Europe-exclusive edition (SBGY040) is a far more luxurious model, based on the thin and graceful Elegance case. Here crafted in 18k rose gold, this 38.5mm watch is relatively thin at 10.2mm. Apart from the different dial and materials, it shares its specifications with models such as the Elegance Karasawa SBGY035 or the handsome Hana-Ikada SBGY026. Being a Spring Drive watch, it is powered by the hand-wound calibre 9R31, with two stacked mainsprings in a single barrel, a ±15 seconds per month accuracy and a solid 72h power reserve. Visible through the sapphire back, it is nicely decorated but not specifically demonstrative. A power reserve indicator sits on the back.

The main novelty for this Chisen Teien SBGY040 is the dial, this time inspired by ripples at the surface of ponds. Using a pattern design similar to traditional Japanese “Wagara” (“Wa” meaning Japanese style and “gara” meaning pattern), this ancient decoration was widely used on kimonos, porcelain, and interior décor. It’s here paired with a deep blue colour and gold markers and hands. A matching blue strap finishes this elegant and luxurious piece.

A limited edition of 20 pieces, the Grand Seiko SBGY040 will be available from November 1st, exclusively at Grand Seiko Paris & London Boutiques only, and priced at EUR 31,100.

Quick facts: 38.5mm x 10.2mm – 18k rose gold case, dual-curved sapphire crystal, sapphire caseback, 30m water-resistant – blue Wagara dial pattern, gold applied markers and hands – hand-wound Spring Drive calibre 9R31, in-house, 72h power reserve, ±15 seconds per month – blue crocodile leather strap, gold pin buckle – Limited edition of 20 pieces – ref. SBGY040 – EUR 31,100

For more details, please visit grand-seiko.com.

https://monochrome-watches.com/2024-europe-exclusive-grand-seiko-sbgw321-nishikigoi-and-sbgy040-chisen-teien-introducing-specs-price/

5 responses

  1. If they only put a fraction of the energy that goes into these endless dial variations, into making the cases thinner…

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  2. It’s madness, the frequency of Grand Seiko with their innumerous releases of dial variants. It harkens back to the late nineties and well into the noughties when Audemars Piguet was relentlessly releasing design variations with their Royal Oak Offshore series. But at least AP did so with the entire watch and not just the dial.

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  3. Look I absolutely love GS and I own one that I will never sell. But they are, in my eyes losing their allure, if they keep releasing watch after watch. They need to consolidate their product line. As hard as they work and as stunning as the dials are, it’s becoming something people gloss over thinking ‘what in nature are they going to claim inspired this dial?’

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  4. Beautiful watches, both!

    By the way, the dial pattern of the SBGY040 is not a novelty. It has been introduced in 2020 (SBGA423) for the first time.

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