Union Glashütte’s Winning Duet of 1893 Johannes Dürrstein Anniversary Editions

One of Johannes Dürrstein’s objectives when he founded Glashütter Uhrenfabrik Union in 1893 was to produce high-quality watches at affordable prices to cater to a broader range of customers. His philosophy of keeping movements simple and cutting down on superlative frills made Dürrstein an early champion of “affordable luxury.” Following the company’s demise in the 1930s, Union Glashütte was revived as a subsidiary of Glashütte Original in 1996 and, in 2000, became part of the Swatch Group. Inspired by historic pocket watch layouts from the late 19th century, UG recently released a duo of very attractive 1893 heritage watches with contemporary specs and affordable prices.

Honouring the founder’s 180^th birthday (Johannes Dürrstein 1845-1901), the two new watches hail from the brand’s 1893 collection. While the brand has positioned them as a his-and-hers watch proposal, with a 41mm model and a smaller 34mm one, both watches have a neutral, unisex appeal. Which does not mean they lack character or style – far from it.

Tapping into classic Glashütte pocket watch traits, the larger 41mm Large Second model plays with off-centred rings: hours and minutes on the left and a “large” subsidiary seconds display on the right. With its more straightforward layout, the Small Second places the traditional subsidiary seconds counter at 6 o’clock. Although the layout and blued hands evoke the spirit of yesteryear pocket watches, the clean design, the judicious choice of colour and textures are decidedly contemporary.

Although the brand describes the dial’s background colour as taupe, other tones such as beige and sand could also be used. Whichever you prefer, this elegant yet understated colour works beautifully in this context and features a contemporary grained finish. The graceful, intersecting silver rings of the Large Second, which form a horizontal figure eight, are applied to the grained taupe background. Decorated with snailing like the grooves of a vinyl record, the hour and minute counter features polished and applied indices, while the small seconds hosts a date window at 3 o’clock. The two counters embrace a finely sandblasted taupe background and are indicated by elegant, blued hands. Echoing their shape, a circular-brushed silver ring loops around the counters and continues to the dial’s perimeter, where the inscription “Made in Germany” is printed.

The 41mm stainless steel case of the Large Second has a thickness of 11.8mm, while the more compact 34mm Small Second model has a slimmer case height of 9.57mm. Both models share a domed sapphire crystal over the dial and a sapphire crystal caseback, but vary in their water-resistance capabilities. The 41mm model can fathom depths of 100 metres, while the smaller 34mm model can only go to 50m.

Using a similarly grained taupe background, the Small Second reference displays the time centrally, with polished indices on the periphery and a small seconds counter at 6 o’clock, with a date aperture. Like its sibling, the outermost silver ring of the dial, as well as the one framing the small seconds counter, is brushed. Also adorned with a grooved track, the white interior of the small seconds features a slightly raised, smooth central area.

Owning a watch made in Glashütte, the cradle of Germany’s finest watchmaking traditions, is not only a distinction but usually comes with a hefty price tag. To keep prices in check, Swiss ETA automatic movements power UG’s Large Second and Small Second references. However, since German law requires that 50% of the components by value be produced in Glashütte to be designated as such, the ETA-based calibres are partially reworked in-house at the brand’s on-site manufacturing facility, opened in 2008. Both movements provide a 42-hour power reserve, a stop-seconds mechanism and a date display, with decorative Glashütte-style finishing including perlage, blued screws and striping.

Paired with black calfskin straps with a double-folding clasp, this handsome duo can be acquired as a collector’s set or individually. Limited to 99 pieces each, the Large Second retails for EUR 1,960 and the Small Second for EUR 1,780. Admittedly, this is a reasonable price for a watch with Saxon pedigree, a handsome combination of colours and textures and a dependable contemporary movement. More information at union-glashuette.com.