Hands-On – Ulysse Nardin Classico Paul David Nardin

This year, Ulysse Nardin is on a tear… After the impressive collection launched at the SIHH 2017, which showed more modern and refined designs, yet still “very Ulysse” in the style, we now have a succession of several rather surprising watches, all with a vintage-inspired theme. After the Diver Le Locle, a dive watch inspired by a 1960s timepiece, here is the Ulysse Nardin Classico Paul David Nardin, this time taking inspiration from a 1945 watch. And once again, the look is just superb.

As with the Diver Le Locle, we have once again been surprised by the Classico Paul David Nardin… for a simple reason: vintage-oriented pieces are not typically something the brand does. Of course, we all know about the foundations of Ulysse Nardin and the immense contribution it made to marine chronometers, a rich heritage that can still be seen today in current collections and that is deeply integrated in the DNA of the brand. However, when it comes to using the traditional codes of the vintage-oriented trend, it seems surprising at first from Ulysse Nardin, but no less pleasant once you’ve seen the result in the metal.

As clearly indicated in its name, this new piece from Ulysse Nardin is part of the Classico line, something that can easily be seen from the restrained and clean 39mm steel case. However, compared to the normal Classico watches, such as this one for instance, the case of the Paul David Nardin is slightly different (and also a bit smaller), reflecting the 1940s style it has been designed to emulate – which is not unpleasant, to be honest. The middle case is very thin while the watch features a highly domed sapphire crystal (reminiscent of vintage Plexiglas). The case of the Ulysse Nardin Classico Paul David Nardin is complemented nicely by a supple and informal light brown leather strap, with pin buckle.

The dial of this  Ulysse Nardin Classico Paul David Nardin is also a quite dramatic departure from the rest of the collection, with its silvery white color and simple but elegant applied Arabic numerals. The display keeps to the essentials: hours and minutes in the centre, small seconds on the sub-dial (which is well-positioned and well proportioned) and finally, a date window at 6. Whilst it’s not historically accurate, as it’s not present on the 1945 watch that inspired this Classico Paul David Nardin, the date function seems to be a demand of many final clients (even if hardcore collectors will probably dislike it). Yet, its integration in the small second sub-dial remains discreet.

Inside the case of the Ulysse Nardin Classico Paul David Nardin is a well known movement, the in-house calibre UN-320, an automatic movement with 48h power reserve, 4Hz frequency and the usual features of the brand, meaning the silicon hairspring, escape wheel and pallet fork. The movement is not visible though, in order to respect the vintage theme.

The Ulysse Nardin Classico Paul David Nardin (ref. 3202-900) is now available in boutiques and will be priced at CHF 9,500 / EUR 9,500. More details on www.ulysse-nardin.com.

Technical Specifications – Ulysse Nardin Classico Paul David Nardin

• Case: 39mm diameter – stainless steel, polished – domed sapphire crystal on the front, plain steel caseback – 30m water resistant
• Movement: UN-320 – in-house – automatic – 4Hz frequency – 48h power reserve – silicon hairspring, escape wheel and pallet fork – hours, minutes, small seconds, date
• Strap: light brown leather strap with steel pin buckle
• Reference: 3202-900
• Price: EUR 9,500 / CHF 9,500
• Availability: April 2017