Not all images were able to load for printing. Please close the print window and try again. The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 for Hodinkee Brings Back 1972 Memories, with a Twist
A tribute to the first PD watch designed by F. A. Porsche in 1972.
1972 was the year of the final Apollo mission, the dramatic Summer Olympics in Munich and the Watergate scandal. For what concerns us here at MONOCHROME, it was the year when a certain Ferdinand Alexander “Butzi” Porsche became independent and founded the Porsche Design Studio. His first product was a watch, the first black-coated watch ever commercialised, and a watch that has defined the entire style of the studio for years to come. Following the 50-year celebration and dedicated commemorative watches, it is now time for our colleagues at Hodinkee to bring this highly important watch, a favourite of our team, under the spotlight with a cool, vintage-inspired Chronograph 1 Limited Edition.
While it is now a multi-topic design studio, Porsche Design’s first product was a watch and a highly important one. A tool watch with a no-nonsense form follows function design, the Chronograph 1 had unmistakable Porsche DNA and a clear link to motorsports. It essentially reproduces the dashboard of a Porsche race car and brings it into the first black-coated case ever. Made together with Orfina, this PVD-coated watch was first powered by a 7750 before moving to the Lemania calibre 5100 (due to a halt in the 7750’s production).
This watch was re-edited by Porsche Design in 2022 as a celebration of its 50th anniversary, with a first limited edition with historical cues and a second, more modern take later that year. This is the base that’s been used by Hodinkee to create an appealing, slightly vintaged model with a fun twist on the dial. The Chronograph 1 Limited Edition for Hodinkee is mechanically identical to these two editions, with a 40.8mm titanium case coated with Black Titanium Carbide – a much more resistant material than the original PVD. Just like the original 1972 watch, this new LE is worn on a matching blackened titanium bracelet, offering sporty looks and lightweight comfort.
Most of the work done by our American colleagues is visible on the dial. While keeping the original 6-9-12 layout alive, Hodinkee adds a touch of vintage to the hands and markers, which have been rendered in a dark SLN cream colour, combined with the old-school Porsche Design logo and font. A small H sits on the 6 o’clock counter, the only reference to Hodinkee on the dial and a tribute to the colours used for the “3H” models issued to the military.
More original is the choice of a day-date display that’s available in English and Japanese. With a click and a few rotations of the crown, the wearer can choose which language is displayed (both languages are displayed on the same disc). Unique to this edition, the inner flange or rehaut has a 1-mile scale, a reference to the magazine’s country of origin, which is used as an MPH tachymeter scale.
Under the solid titanium back is Porsche Design’s proprietary take on the 7750 architecture, the COSC-certified, automatic cam-lever calibre WERK 01.140. It beats at 4Hz and stores 48h of energy when fully wound. It remains hidden and the watch has a comfortable 100m water-resistance.
A total of 350 pieces of the Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Limited Edition For Hodinkee will be produced worldwide. The first 100 pieces of this objectively highly appealing watch are available in the Hodinkee Shop for USD 9,650, the same price as the classic all-black edition of the Chronograph 1.
8 responses
hodinkee watch on monochrome watches???
The PD chronograph 1 are nice watches, with good vintage heritage, but for the asking price the movement needs to be upgraded IMHO. The WERK 01.140 is a essentially a tarted up Valjoux 7750, with the main issue being the thickness, resulting in a 14.15 mm thick watch and a 5mm protruding caseback meaning that the watch floats on the wrist. I’d consider buying a PD Chrono 1 if they brought out a 40mm version with the full Titanium Carbide case (not just a coating) and updated the movement to allow a thinner watch.
With regards to why a Hodinkee watch is on Monochrome, I expect that Hodinkee will need all the help it can get to shift the 100 units of the LE that they have to sell.
With regards to why a Hodinkee watch is on Monochrome… Can’t we just talk about a watch we find highly attractive? Pricey, but attractive? No other reason behind this article 😉
I got a chance to see it up close and next to other models and I have to say I wasn’t sold, I found other editions more attractive, the all black limited edition probably my favorite. It’s the first time that I think a H release misses the mark. While there are nice details like the red H, this release feels like a mish mash of different parts that unfortunately fail to elevate the end product compared to previous editions. Then there’s the price, 10k for a cam actuated chrono, which even taking the coating and nice bracelet into account makes it a challenging proposition. I’d personally get a vintage sinn with a real tritium dial or a guinand for less than half. I wish them the best but it’s going to take time to sell all 350.
Ambitious pricing for what it is.
please correct me if i’m wrong but i think your statement about the original movement is in error: “Made together with Orfina, this PVD-coated watch was first powered by a 7750 before moving to the Lemania calibre 5100 (due to a halt in the 7750’s production).” as i recall the original was with the Lemania 5100, which is the movement that was stopped, with the 7750 replacing it.
@johnnyjohnny – actually, the chronograph 1 started its life with a 7750, then moved to a 5100. The vintage example you can see at the top of this article is one of the very first models ever produced (owned by PD) and has a 7750. We have verified this, as it also surprised us at first.
This watch was one of the very first to feature a 7750 at launch. And then the production of the 7750 stopped (around 1976, coming back around 1983) and later models came with a 5100 Lémania. Hope that helps.
I don’t understand why they put “mile” if they chose Japanese on day, as Japanese use kilometers.