Seiko Teams Up with Porter Classic, Bringing the Laurel-Inspired Black Enamel Presage SPB449

While collaborations between watch manufacturers and lifestyle-oriented brands have been a thing for the past years, it’s not often that Seiko teams up with an external designer or fashion brand. We’ve seen multiple collaborations in the Seiko 5 Sports collection, but with Presage, this is more surprising. And even more surprising than the joint work done with Porter Classic, it’s the watch itself resulting from this collaboration that staggers. A small, black enamel, Laurel-inspired wristwatch that feels like a converted pocket watch, here’s the Presage Craftsmanship Series Porter Classic Limited Edition SPB449.

Before discovering this objectively appealing and striking new watch, let’s talk about the parties involved in this collaborative creation. On one side is Seiko, with its Presage Craftsmanship Series, the higher-end and classic side of the brand, a collection that brings to the forefront traditional Japanese crafts such as Urushi lacquer, Arita porcelain or Shippo enamel. On the other side is Porter Classic, a Japanese fashion brand renowned for its high-quality products that blend traditional craft techniques with modern design. Established in 2007 by Katsuyuki Yoshida and his son, Leo Yoshida, Porter Classic has created various items that are made in Japan and can be passed down from generation to generation.

So, what about this new watch, the Presage SPB449. At first, it feels highly familiar, being inspired by the Laurel, Japan’s and Seiko’s first wristwatch born in 1913. Second, there’s a sheer resemblance at first with the Presage SPB359 released in late 2022, a fairthful re-creation of the Laurel watch done for its 100th anniversary. However, the new black Presage SPB449 done with Porter Classic isn’t just a new dial… It has several unique aspects to make it truly special.

It all starts with the case, and mostly its dimensions. The diameter is on the truly small side, measuring 35mm, with a height of 12.3mm (that might be my main grief with this watch, as it will certainly feel quite thick). The design is clearly inspired by early 20th century wristwatches, which were for many of them converted pocket watches. It thus has a classic round case with articulated wire-like lugs that feel like a later addition. An onion crown sits at 3 o’clock, a box-shaped sapphire crystal adds charm and the caseback is solid steel, screwed and marked with the silhouette of Katsuyuki Yoshida, Porter Classic’s founder.

The dial of this SPB449 is, like the Laurel, made of enamel. Yet here, Katsuyuki Yoshida selected an elegant black enamel to create a timeless and refined look. The dials are made by master enamel craftsman Mitsuru Yokosawa and his team at a workshop specializing in enamel production. Contrary to the Presage SPB359, there’s only here a 24h sub-dial at 6 o’clock (no power reserve indicator) where the seconds hand was located on the original Laurel – too bad Seiko isn’t making a small seconds movement specially for these vintage-orientted applcations.i Nice printed Breguet-like numerals remind of the original model and adds great rm. The “Automatic 3 Days” is again debatable.

Inside the case is a modern automatic movement, the in-house calibre 6R5H. Running at a 3Hz frequency, it brings a comfortable 3-dat power reserve. The watch is delivered with a black cordovan pull-through strap was developed especially for this creation and feels reminescent of vintage bands used on converted pocket watches. An additional brown strap is also included. The Seiko x Porter Classic collaboration watch is accompanied by a special Jubako-style presentation box that can hold both the watch and the additional strap.

Available from November 2024, the Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series Porter Classic SPB449 is a limited edition of 500 pieces and it will retail for EUR 2,400. For more details, please visit seikowatches.com.